where's ian?

Beijing for beginners: a primer

2010-08-10T20:52:00.004+07:00

Since I’ve been living in Beijing for a little while now, my keen and observant eye has been noticing the local customs and habits of the ‘Jingers’. What follows is not an opinion of what is right/wrong – it’s simply an observation. You can judge, but I don’t.

1) Very few people speak English here.
Unlike many other cities in Asia, it’s not easy to find English speaking people in stores or restaurants, or driving taxis. I know the onus is on me to learn Chinese, but I just figured there’d be more English speakers here. I use pantomime a lot. There is much waving of hands and pointing.

2) Everyone spits.
Seriously, everyone. Is there that much excess saliva in the locals here, that they have the need to expel it everywhere/anytime? Men, women, children, taxi drivers, policemen, etc…they ALL spit. I’ve had to dodge a few expectorate projectiles while walking the streets. Not used to that.

3) No one follows traffic rules.
Drivers, and their cars/bikes/trucks, reign supreme here. They don’t pay attention to traffic lights or signs. They just drive. If you’re in their way, they will just honk and warn you they’re coming. If they hit you, it’s your fault, because they warned you. Red lights mean nothing. It doesn’t even slow them down. Crosswalks are simply places on roads where pedestrians are more easily located and hit. If the crosswalk is active (green walk signal), that does not mean you have the right to cross. You still have to yield to all cars, because they will NOT slow down for pedestrians. They will only honk and keep coming. You've been warned.

4) The Subway.
Beijing has a very extensive subway system. And they keep building. But for all its’ modernity, it’s still very cheap. All fares, no matter where you go, or how far, is only 2 yuan (30 cents). There are card dispensers where you can key in your destination, but all fares cost the same. Perhaps because of this low fare, the subway attracts all manner of passengers. Some subway riders have no shame. I’ve seen women breastfeeding (shirt up, baby locked on), I’ve seen countless men without shirts, and I’ve seen people sitting on the floor, eating. Many train passengers are not very polite, too. Once, I actually missed my station, because I could not exit the train. It’s not uncommon for waiting passengers to push on the train before they let the exiting passengers leave. I’ve learned to be very pushy, and even to put my elbows up and shove my way off the train. It seems rude, but it’s survival.

5) Supermarkets.
There are 17 million people in Beijing. And I think about half of them are in a supermarket every time I visit. It's total chaos in my local market (a massive 2 level Carrefour), but it's great to go, if only just to observe people. Some things seem to be backwards to what makes sense to me. For instance, all the fruits and vegetables are shrink wrapped, but all the meat is in open air cases, unwrapped. You can pick up the raw meat with your bare hands, but the fruit is in plastic, for your protection. Also, there is a whole aisle dedicated to rice. Bulk rice, imported rice, massive fork-lift size bags of rice. You name it, they have it.

6) Beijing Bikinis.
It's freaking hot here in Beijing, in the height of summer. Unbearable humidity on some days. And the practical Chinese men here, have a solution known as the Beijing Bikini. Basically, when it's hot out, the men roll up (or pull up) their shirts up to the nipples, in an effort to keep their bellies cool. And it doesn't matter how chubby they are, it still happens. They have no shame. I plan to shoot as many of these Bikini's as I can find and create a gallery soon.

Expo 2010

2010-07-30T22:41:00.006+07:00

During my short time here in China, I’ve had the opportunity to visit the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. And what a spectacle it is. This event is a showcase for the city of Shanghai, and for China and it’s people. It’s been a 8 year project for the city, and the work they’ve done to prepare for the show is evident all over the sprawling metro area.

Expo 2010 is a massive undertaking, covering over 5 square kilometers along both sides of the Pudong River that bisects the city. It has cost 2x what the Beijing Olympics cost (about $4 billion), and will generate billions in revenue for the city. Almost 200 countries have participated in some way, as have countless corporate sponsors and international organizations (UN, FedEx, Coke, etc).

I visited the site over a period of 5 days, going in the day times, and at night. It’s really impossible to see the whole site in one day, partly because of the oppressive heat, and also because of the sheer size of the place. I was primarily interested in the architecture of the buildings, more than I was with what was inside the pavilions. I enjoyed shooting the buildings at nighttime, when they were lit up nicely, but some buildings looked better in the daylight.

Some of the country pavilions were so popular, that people would line up for over 5 hours for the opportunity to view the interiors. I was not one of those people. I avoided any queue that lasted more than 30 minutes. Most of the smaller pavilions were not that exciting to view inside. I visited Canada’s pavilion, but was fairly disappointed. Many of the countries showed generic video footage of people looking happy to live there, and going about their happy daily existence. Most of the videos were interchangeable, and could be shown in any other pavilion.
Some advice, if you choose to go (it closes Oct 31, 2010):

- Spend most of your time there at night. Arrive in the mid afternoon (3pm or so), and stay until about 11 pm. The crowds will be smaller, and it will be cooler. If you arrive at 9 am, you will need to queue for up to an hour just to get into the park. Arriving later means a smooth sail into the park.

- If you’re keen to see the popular pavilions, be prepared to wait. There are long lines right up until closing. The big ticket countries (Germany, Italy, UK, Spain, Saudi Arabia) won’t accept any new people in line past 9pm. Most pavilions take about 15 minutes to walk through, even if the queue is 5 hours.
- The China Pavilion is the crown jewel of Expo. Only 100,000 people per day are allowed in. If you wish to view the interior, you’ll need to line up about 6 am to obtain a ticket. The tickets will have a visit time (I believe).

Moving in...

2010-07-27T20:31:00.006+07:00

Part of the process of setting roots in Beijing, is finding a place to live. And I’ve done that. It was not a fun process. I’ve chosen a place in Southeast Beijing, in a district called Pingguo, close to the subway.

The steps involved in finding this apartment where challenging. Every day, for a few weeks, I would scour the housing ads posted in the Beijing English websites. I contacted 5 different agents, but only one replied. The girl that contacted me spoke perfect English, although she believed she was bad. Perhaps the other agents didn’t reply to me, because my price range was too low, or they don’t like dealing with foreigners.

I looked at about 10 places, most of which where awful. I honestly don’t understand how people can live in such filth. All of the apartment owners promised to have the place cleaned if I chose to lease their property. After seeing several bad places, I told the agent that I only wanted to see clean places. It was clear though, that she and I have differing opinions on the definition of the word ‘clean’.

Once I finally selected an apartment, the leasing process was the next challenge. Beijing custom requires that tenants pay every 3 months, and pay a 1 month deposit. So, that’s 4 months up front. And I had to pay in cash for the first payment, so I arrived with a wad of cash that looked like I robbed a bank. Since the largest note in China is the 100 yuan note, and the rent was in the thousands, you can imagine how big the stack was for 4 months rent. Obtaining the money from the ATM seemed risky, with a long line up waiting for me to stuff the hundreds of notes into an envelope.

I am slowly learning the small details of renting an apartment. Today, my power went out. I found out that I had to pay for my electricity in advance using a smart card the Agent gave me, at a local convenience store. Once the smart card was reloaded, I inserted it into the electric meter, and flipped the breaker and my power was back on. How can I know this? Also, I have to pay for my Internet service for a full year, in advance. And even then, the Government protects me from ‘dangerous sites’ like youtube and facebook. Lucky me.

There is a nice park, just outside my building. This is still pretty rare in Beijing, where land is valuable for its’ 17 million people. Most apartments look out over other buildings and dirty streets, so it’s nice to have some greenery to look at out my window. There is a large mall, and a Carrefour a few minutes walk away, and dozens of restaurants and shops all over the neighborhood. I feel like an oddity here, though. I was told by the Agent that the buildings and neighborhood were popular with foreigners, but I’ve really only seen a few westerners around.

I'm back, finally.

2010-07-25T13:30:00.001+07:00

I can write again!

It’s been too long. And I have so much to say.
I am now living in Beijing, China.

Yes, really, China.

And because it’s China, my ability to access websites that I typically use every day (like Facebook, Youtube, this blog, etc) are blocked by government censors. Even some sites that are completely innocent are blocked for some reason – like ‘digital-photography-school.com’ of all things. So, I have not been able to write about all my experiences in China, until now. I’ve found that there is a back-door access method that the majority of Chinese people use to view sites that are forbidden. That is why/how you’re reading my words now.

So, here I am in China. Again.
But this time it’s different. This time, I’ve taken steps that will anchor me here longer than all the previous times. I’ve taken a job, teaching photography at Beijing Center of Photography. And I’ve leased an apartment for a full year (the standard term here). And I’ve obtained a business Visa, so I can legally stay and work (never done that before).

When I think back almost 2 years ago, Beijing was not even something I had considered. But, in those 2 years, I’ve visited this city a few times, and quite like it. Though I know it will take some adjusting. I know I will miss Thailand, and the many friends I have there. And the same goes for Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. I am about as far from those places as I can be, and won’t have too many chances to visit them for a while.

I have a lot to do here in Beijing over the coming months. First, I need to ensure I make enough money to support myself (the teaching gig is part time). Second, I need to start learning some Mandarin, fast. And I want to get to know the city better. And now that I have access to my blog again, I need to get back to writing more often.

Heading North

2010-06-09T09:00:00.003+07:00

Today was a sad day. A number of circumstances have pushed me into making a decision to leave my beloved Bangkok. It was not an easy decision to make, either. I've spent a little more than 8 months living in Bangkok, and it's been wonderful.

For those of you that know me well, you will know that I've struggled to get a decent job in Thailand, and this contributed to my departure. For about a month or so, i began working on a new magazine that was to be published and distributed throughout SE Asia, but after the protests rocked Bangkok in April and May, the investor pulled out of the project and I was out of work again. That was short lived.

The political protests have destroyed much of Bangkok, with some popular shopping malls playing victim to anti-government forces. The largest mall in Bangkok was completely destroyed due to senseless arsonists. What does a shopping mall have to do with politics? Countless billions of baht have been lost due to the crisis. It may take years for the economy to recover. So many foreign Governments (including mine) warned their citizens to stay away. Only recently, have they lifted their travel advisories.

In the period since my short-term job ended, I've been seeking work all over Asia (including Thailand). I've sent applications to postings in Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. The only responses I've had at all are in China. So I've made the decision to chase them down, and see if I can get a job out of one of them. So I am now in Hong Kong again, in order to get a Visa for China. I will be in Shanghai and Beijing later in June.

Leaving Bangkok was a difficult thing to do, but i think it is the smart thing to do. I will miss the many friends that I've met while there. Some more than others. My departure was sudden, so i didn't really get a chance to say goodbye in a proper way. But I hope to return soon, and pick up the friendships where we left off. And really, China is only a few countries away. I will continue to seek work in SE asia every day (especially Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore), so who knows.

Wet, wet, wet

2010-04-15T20:33:00.005+07:00

It's Songkran here in Thailand. That's Thai New Years for all my non-Thai readers. And it's unlike any other New Years festival I am familiar with. Actually, here in Thailand, locals celebrate 3 different New Years. Officially, Thailand observes the Western calendar year, so the Dec 31/Jan 01 event happens here as well. And considering the large Chinese influence in Thailand, the Lunar New Years is also observed. I think they got it right here: 3 New Years in the span of 4 month can't be too bad.

What makes the Thai New Years unique, is that unlike other New Years, the participants act out in a manner that can only be described as chaotic. In Western culture, New Years is all about observing the changing of the year and being with the one you love. In Chinese culture, it's all about family. Spending time with relatives is paramount to the Lunar New Year. But in Thailand, it's an all-out street war waged with water and white paste.

Traditionally, the Thai New Year observes some Buddhist ceremonies, cleansing the statues with water. The 'blessed' water would then be collected, as run-off from the cleaning, and gently poured over the shoulders of the community elders for good luck. This has evolved considerably into an massive pouring of water on everyone, from every conceivable vessel. You can't walk down the street during Songkran without being soaked from head to toe with water. The fact that Songkran coincides with the hottest month of the year in Thailand is a benefit (temps rise to +40 in April).

When I first visited Thailand during Songkran, back in 2005, I was not prepared at all. I had no idea what was happening, and how to manage the experience. I remember that I hired a taxi and toured the main areas around my hotel, and stared in wide-eyed amazement at what I was seeing. Thousands of people would line the streets with buckets and water guns, throwing water at anyone that would pass by. This year, as a resident, I've decided to get involved fully. So, I bought a massive 2 litre water gun with pump-action, and a waterproof camera (I have take photos, right?).

I ventured out onto Silom Road, and made my way up the street into the crowd, and was soaking wet within minutes. The water dousing is all in good fun, and not violent in any way. People shoot water in a playful way, and fully expect to be shot at in return. Every shot of water is an invitation to shoot back. There is an etiquette for water shooting too. It's OK to shoot at Elders, but you shoot at their hands in respect. With others, it's open season! You try not to aim for the face, but anywhere else is fine.

Some people don't bother with the water at all. Some prefer to apply a white paste on the face or bodies of passers by. This is symbolic of a Buddhist blessing. It's applied gently, and it's polite to say "thank you" to the applier, since it is meant as a blessing.

This year's celebrations have been reduced, largely due to the political protests that have been going on for the past several months. Many foreign tourists who would normally flock to Thailand during Songkran are absent this year, for fear of being harmed by protesters. It's not as bad as the media is reporting, and most of the protesting has disappeared during New Years. Overall, it's been a truly enjoyable, and wet week.

Suk San Pee Mai!

Sydneysiding

2010-02-22T08:00:00.005+07:00

So, I am back in Sydney. Who knew? When I was here in Dec 08, I thought it may be my only trip down under. But things change, and here I am again. Let me explain...

I've had a few months of steadily growing work and networking while in Bangkok. I've met some wonderful people, who've given me some opportunities to produce some great work. Particularly, I met the people who produce the largest circuit parties in Asia (for my straight readers, do a wiki search for "Circuit Parties" to catch up). I was given the chance to attend and shoot during a series of parties in Koh Samui, Thailand. It was a great time, and the pictures were amazing. I am not much of a party goer myself, but I know a good photo op, when I see it. The producers then asked me to shoot the guys for their next party coming up in April. It was a great experience, since I got to work with some great professional models. All of the advertising for gCircuit's next party includes photos shot by me. It was an unpaid job, but I am listed as a sponsor, and may get more work from it later on.

The opportunity to shoot at the parties in Sydney during Mardi Gras then came up, and it was a chance I couldn't turn down. I managed to obtain a Media Pass that will allow me to shoot the parade from street level, and gain access to the main circuit parties as well. I will be shooting and writing for Spice magazine from Bangkok, and for Paul Marin Productions (lighting/laser producer). I also hope to gather a large number of photos that will allow me to do an exhibition afterward.

I am looking forward to spending the next few weeks here in Sydney. It's summer, and it's beautiful out. Mardi Gras is an event I've considered going to for years, but it's always been so far away. Now, it's much closer to where I live so here I am.

2009 - A Travel Review

2010-01-01T11:51:00.014+07:00

2009 is done. And what a year it's been, for me. Whenever the new year comes, I always take stock of what I've done over the previous year. And this year, I decided to look back over 2009 and define my top 10 travel destinations. I've been a lot of places this past year, and had many wonderful memories. I've been to more than 10 places of course, but here is a list of my favourites this year (in chronological order)...

1) Sydney, Australia

This was my first time in Australia. I actually arrived in Sydney in 2008, but stayed there over the New Year, making it my first location in 2009. Sydney surprised me. I often hear that it's a beautiful city, and a great destination, but I still kinda doubted it. But when I was there, I was impressed with the place. The harbour, the nightlife, the people - all wonderful. I am considering returning in a few months.

2) Melbourne, Australia

I was in Melbourne when it was my birthday. Of the two cities I visited in Australia, I preferred Melbourne. It has a thriving artists community, and the city center is beautiful. If I was to ever live in Australia, I think it would be in Melbourne.

3) Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, and certainly one worth visiting. The city has a slower pace and it's own style, and feels quite different from Bangkok. I was there during the annual umbrella festival, which was an amazing event.

4) Hong Kong, China

I have always had a soft spot for Hong Kong, and have spent more time in this city than any other place in Asia. I feel very comfortable in Hong Kong, and have many friends that I consider important. I ended up 'living' in Hong Kong for a total of 6 months this past year, and got to know it even better than before. I've learned that it's very expensive, and difficult to live in, if you are not connected to the right people. But, it's still a highlight of my year.

5) Xitang, China

When I was in Shanghai in April/May, I visited this small village a few hours away. It is a beautiful little town with a small canal system. It's overrun with tourists now, since it was featured in the movie Mission Impossible III, but it's still very beautiful and worth the short trip.

6) Beijing, China

I kind of knew in advance that I'd like Beijing, before I arrived there. It has all the things I like in a city: historical monuments, thriving art community, non-stop culture and great shopping. Seeing the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall is something that everyone should do in their lifetime.

7) Bali, Indonesia

Bali is certainly the most beautiful part of Indonesia. I've been 4 times now, I think. And each time, it's better, as I find nicer Villas to stay in, and better beaches to visit. Bali has a recognizable style all it's own, and there are so many amazing properties and restaurants/clubs. Well worth seeing, again and again.

8) Penang, Malaysia

Penang has so much going for it, and is among the best little places I've visited in Asia. Since it is a World Heritage site, it's protected, and much of it's history is still very visible. I've shot a lot of great photos around the island, and would recommend visiting it to any photographer. And it's one of few places in Malaysia that you can get pork. =)

9) Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, and Cambodia in general, is amazing. Of course, the highlight of Siem Reap are the historical Angkor Wat temples. I spent a week there in September, visiting as much of the park as I could. It was well worth it, as I've amassed a huge library of great images from this park that may one day be closed to visitors.

10, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

I quite like the city of Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon as it's often known). The monuments to the Vietnamese War are interesting, the food is great (but not the coffee), the shopping is cheap, and the people are very nice. I think Vietnam's time for a tourism boom has come. I'd certainly like to return, and to visit more areas in the country.

Christmas in Asia

2009-12-23T10:33:00.004+07:00

This is my second Christmas in Asia since I moved here in Oct 2008. Last Christmas, I was in the island paradise of Bali. This year I will be in the crowded city of Bangkok. And much to my surprise, Christmas is celebrated everywhere.

I guess I thought that Christmas was a western thing, or at least a Christian thing. But it's simply not the case. It's impossible to walk down the streets or in a mall in Bangkok, without seeing Christmas decorations and hearing carols. Christmas movies are on TV (Grinch, Fred Claus, Jingle All The Way, Miracle on 34th, etc.), and fake snow is everywhere.

Growing up in Canada, I always thought of Christmas as a religious event that became a commercial event. But it still had the Christian base behind it. People still understood what Christmas meant (the birth of Christ, etc). The concept of Santa Claus and the myth of the flying reindeer was secondary at first, but then became the primary focus of the period. The Christmas season became a huge stressful event that people saved up for all year. And there were images and totems that became associated with Christmas, such as the decorated tree, the snowman and candy canes.

But here in Southern Asia, where Christianity is uncommon, and snow is impossible, Christmas is as prevalent as it is back in Canada. However, the religious aspect of Christmas is removed in most cases. What's left of Christmas are the images of a cold weather festival. That's what confuses me the most. Is that what Christmas is about - snow? And if so, why is it celebrated here?

I was in Ho Chi Minh City last week, because my Visa for Thailand expired, and I had to exit the country to obtain a new one. While I was there, I was amazed at the volume of Christmas decorations covering the city. And it seemed quite strange to me, to see all the Christmas trees and the Santa Claus statues everywhere. Young families were dressing their children in festive clothing, and placing them in front of the displays to be photographed. I believe that 99% of the people in Vietnam have never seen snow, but at Christmas time, the city is covered in the fake stuff.

One more thing that Christmas means to me, is spending time with family and other loved ones. My family is only a few people now, and I miss them all. My friends are many, and I cherish the time I have with them, and the happiness they bring to my life. I wish all a Happy Festive Season (as they call it here), snow or no snow.

On to Year Two...

2009-10-29T21:37:00.004+07:00

Wow. It's been a year since I left Canada. Where has the year gone? Honestly, it feels like I just left. Maybe that's because we live in such a connected world now, that I am in daily touch with friends back home, so I don't feel the homesickness that would be normal for such a long time away.

I look back on what my plans were, when I left Vancouver at the end of October 2008. I had dreams of having a successful life in Asia, with a fulfilling career and comfortable home (none of which I have yet). But a lot has changed since then. Is it because I've become more aware of the reality of living abroad? Have I grown and changed a lot? Maybe some of each.

Sure, it's been a great year. I've seen much of the SE Asia that was new to me, and I've met many wonderful people who have become great friends. And I've spent a lot of money. It's not easy to live without a steady income when you are traveling. Hotels and restaurants and flights cost a lot. Over the last 12 months, I've been to 12 countries and taken 30 flights. But I have no regrets. I wouldn't turn down the opportunity to do this again. I would do some things a little differently, but I would still do this.

Currently, I am residing in Bangkok. Thailand is pretty cheap to live in, even when paying the tourist prices. I rent a small apartment in the Silom area of Bangkok. It's nothing fancy, but it offers all I need in an apartment. It's close to most of the things I need on a daily basis (food, coffee, laundry, liquor). There is a professional photo lab nearby, and a post office next to me. What more do I need?

Bangkok will be my home for the next little while, while I sort things out. I am shooting lots, and still enjoying my time in Thailand. I have to figure out some issues with Visas still, but I think I can work that out. I still don't have any solid plans to return to Canada just yet. I don't think it's time.

Bangkoking

2009-10-17T19:13:00.003+07:00

I like Bangkok. Always have. And for many people who've never been here, they wonder why. And it's kind of hard to explain why, actually. Even local Thais wonder what the tourists see in the place. It's certainly not for the traffic gridlock, or the dirty pavements, or the taxi scams. I like it for the great street food, the genuinely nice people, cultural heritage, non-stop market shopping, and the luxurious cinemas.

Over the past 3 weeks or so, I've had an opportunity to see what it is like to live in this sprawling city. All the previous times I've been here, I always had a ticket out - a deadline. It made me cram as much in to my days as possible, so that I had a good time here. Now, since I am not in any hurry to leave, my days have been much more relaxed. I know that if I don't get to that market or shrine today, there is always tomorrow.

Since I've been here, I've tried to revisit many of the places that I've been to in the past, so that I can enjoy them with a slower pace. So, I've been back to the Grand Palace, many Wats, the weekend market, etc. It's been great to spend more time at these places, and not worry so much about getting to the next place so I don't miss anything.

Another thing that I've done since I got here, was to get another tattoo. I've been thinking about getting a second one, for a long time. It's commonly said that once you get your first tattoo, you will always want more. That is how it was for me, at least. But the challenge in getting a tattoo is determining just what to get. The placement on the body is secondary to the design. Actually. in my mind, it hardly matters where you get it. It's the design that is key.

I long assumed that while I am in Thailand, I would get a tattoo that was representative of the country. So, for weeks, months, years, I was flipping through tattoo sample books, and just never settled on anything I liked. Most of the Thai characters looked angry. It just wasn't me. I am more the silent gentle type. So, I thought long and hard about what it is that I wanted to draw into my skin for all time. One idea that kept coming back to me, was Haida designs. I've always liked the style and boldness of the designs. I don't profess to understand what it all means, but they speak to me, nonetheless.

So, I settled on a Haida sun design. The one that I chose was actually quite large, and very detailed. What I ended up getting was the center part of the design. But the reasoning for not getting the whole artwork was purely financial. I paid 5500 baht for this one, and it would have been 15000 baht for the entire design. However, I am still pretty happy with it. This tattoo was done the 'normal' way, with electric needles. It hurts a little, but you get used to it. I've had this for about 4 days now, and it's starting to peel, so it will fade down to the final colours in a short while.

I am still seeking work. I've widened my net now, and I am looking for positions in Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong and Indonesia. I've been sending in applications for lots of stuff, but still no bites. But, being the confident 'glass half full' type of guy, I know something will turn up.

Final Days in Cambodia

2009-09-24T09:24:00.007+07:00

I am now back in Bangkok - still one of my favourite cities in Asia. The final days in Siem Reap were very enjoyable. And the pictures I've gathered will be a testament to the memories I've had.

On Day 6, Pilu and I went to one of the oldest temples known to exist in Cambodia, called Beng Mealea. It is mostly untouched from the way it was discovered, other than some walkways and safety supports put in. Most of the walls have tumbled down, and what remains upright are largely covered with strangler fig trees. The whole temple is shaded from the surrounding forest, and most of the stones are green with moss. Because this temple is about 90 minutes drive from Siem Reap, it is not that popular with tourists. We saw only a handful of Japanese tour groups, and pretty much had the place to ourselves.
On Day 7, we took a tour of Tonle Sap lake by boat. This lake is the heartbeat of Cambodia and is the largest fresh water lake in SE Asia. The lake changes in size depending on the season. During the wet season (May - Oct), the Mekong River rises rapidly, and flows into the lake. The lake can swell from 2m to 10m in depth, and increase in size from 2500 sq km to over 13000 sq km. During the dry season (Nov - Apr), the flow changes, and the lake drains out to the Mekong River, lowering the lake and reducing the fishing.

There are entire villages that thrive on the lake, complete with restaurants, schools, churches and livestock pens. As the lake changes size, the villages move along with it, to follow where the fish are. When we were touring the lake, there were countless women with small children begging for money wherever tourists would be. It was kind of sad to watch, because there were so many. It was strong evidence of the poverty in Cambodia and how vital tourism is to the country.

So, now I am back in Thailand. I will spend the next month or so in a final push to locate some work. I will be concentrating my job hunt on Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia. And of course, I will be taking photos of Bangkok with every chance I get.

Angkor What?

2009-09-20T19:02:00.014+07:00

Day 5.
I have to say, I've been blessed with perfect weather since I've been here. It rained a little bit on the first morning, but not since. I was expecting rain every day. It's hot and sunny with a few white puffy clouds - perfect for photos.
Yesterday, I hit the Big 3 temples. They are the ones that tourists go to for a 'must see' tour if they only have one day. They include the eponymous Angkor Wat, the tree covered Ta Prohm, and the iconic Bayon. When people see photos of this region of the world, it's likely that they would see images of one of these 3 sites. They are the most popular, and the most overrun with busloads of tourists.
Angkor Wat
Ta Prohm

This time, I hired a tuk tuk to get me back and forth. Since I've been there before, I didn't really need a guide. Besides, this time it was purely a photographic journey. I was on the hunt for images for my stock portfolio. That means, I would plant myself in one spot, patiently waiting for the crowds to disperse for that split second for a photo. Despite the crowds, I still managed to get lots of photos with no tourists. I think it was because of the time of day I was in the temples. Whatever the reason, I am happy with the results.
Bayon
Bayon

Today, I visited another set of temples to the southeast of Siem Reap, called the Roluos Group. It was 3 temples dating back to the 9th century, and is in an area that was once the capitol of Angkor. These temples were pretty much tourist free. But they are all quite small, in comparison to the Big 3. The best of the 3 temples was one called Bakong. It is very well preserved, considering the age. The other 2 temples were very small, and largely destroyed from age and weathering.
Bakong

When I was leaving Bakong, I decided I wanted something to drink. When I made this somewhat clear, I was surrounded by young girls, all trying to sell me a beer. They were all yelling to get my attention - all competing for a $2 sale. They were ravenous. It was hard to figure out who deserved the coveted sale. One young girl - she must have been 12 - suggested they compete for my $2 by playing a game amongst themselves. They gathered in a circle and started playing a game that seemed like rock/paper/scissors to me. They were got louder as the game progressed. Eventually, a winner was determined, and the losing girls sulked away. With the beer finally in my possession, I opened it, and it sprayed everywhere. I guess it was shaken during the excitement of the competition.

Tomorrow, I am traveling far afield from Siem Reap. I am going to a temple that is also overgrown with forestation. It's known to be popular amongst photographers. So, I am looking forward to it.

Reap-ing the rewards of Cambodia

2009-09-18T18:31:00.006+07:00

It's day 3 in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I've really enjoyed my time here so far. And I am learning a lot. For instance, I learned that the name "Siem Reap" means "Siam Defeated" - a reference to the ongoing feud with Thailand next door. Though, the name is somewhat ambitious, since Thailand has conquered this part of Asia many times over. Even today, I read in the paper about border and temple disputes between the neighbouring countries.

I spent my first full day, exploring a wide range of different temples and Wats around the region. I hired a local guide name Pilu - an intelligent young man that speaks English very well (not to mention Khmer and Mandarin). I gave pretty loose instructions to my guide: I am here to take photos - show me the photogenic parts of Cambodia. He told me that he enjoyed having me as a client, because he didn't have to talk so much, explaining the history of the temples. I am somewhat interested in the history, but not that much. I am mostly concerned that I get the name of the temple spelled correctly.

So, on day one, I visited 7 temples. I could list them all here, but even I can't make sense of all the names. Lots of temples have similar sounding names, that only locals can tell apart. I thoroughly enjoyed each and every temple for different reasons. What I found particularly interesting, from a photographic point of view was that all 7 temples are seldom visited by the hordes of tourists that you see in the main Big 3 temples.

On day two, we took a longer journey into one of the local mountains, called Phnom Kulea. The attractions on this mountain are plenty. There is a Buddhist temple (or is that Pagoda?) carved into the mountain side. There is a famous river where there is reportedly more than 1000 lingas carved into the bedrock in the flowing river. (For those who don't know: Linga = penis). Much to my disappointment, we didn't see many of them, because the water was too high, thanks to the rainy season. Oh well, you see one carved penis, you've seen them all, right?

The highlight of the mountain though, was the waterfall. This is a very popular leisure site amongst the Khmer people, and understandably so. It's a very long drive up a treacherous road, but very much worth the trip. The waterfall has many levels, with some that are safe for swimming in. It was a nice day, and not at all what I've assumed I would see in Cambodia.

Over the next few days, I will be spending more time visiting Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Bayan (those are the Big 3). They are bound to be overrun by tourists, but I will make the best of it.

Onward...

2009-09-15T07:14:00.003+07:00

It's my last day in Hong Kong. After more than 3 months here (with a few side trips), I've decided that I have to move on. I've been looking for work here, but have had very little success in my search. I know I will miss Hong Kong, and especially the many friends I have here. I wish that things were different, and that I was able to find permanent work here, but that just wasn't to be.

So, today I have a flight south to Bangkok. I've decided to reposition myself in Thailand for a month or so while continuing my job hunt. Thailand is considerably cheaper to live in than Hong Kong. And when you don't have a steady income, that's a big factor to consider. I will continue to hunt for jobs in Hong Kong, while I am in Bangkok. But I think the best chances for me lay in Thailand and Singapore.

But, before I settle in to Bangkok, I am going to take a side trip to Cambodia. I was in that country for a week last November, and I really enjoyed my time there. On that trip I spent time in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. This time I will spend a whole week in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is the closest town to Angkor Wat - considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. I will be exploring the many temples of the area for the whole week. Last time I was only able to spend one day in Angkor. And considering the area is about 400 square kilometers, that is not nearly enough time. I really only saw the highlights. This time I hope to see all the hidden areas only locals see.

It will likely be raining most days when I am in Cambodia (it is the rainy season), but that won't dampen my spirits for photos. It will likely only rain for a portion of the day, so I will still be able to get some shooting in. Then, on to Bangkok!

Decision Time

2009-08-25T12:47:00.006+07:00

It's been a month, I know. I used to write in this blog 2 or 3 times per week. But that was back when I was seeing and experiencing new things all the time. But lately, it's the same all the time. I am still here in Hong Kong of course, but I am not sure it will be for too much longer. Hong Kong is an expensive city, particularly if you don't have a job. I can't believe it's almost September. Where has this year gone?

Over the last month, I've been on a few trips. I spent a few days in Shenzhen, Penang, Bangkok and Singapore. Each time I go to those places, I wonder: should I be living there? I like Penang a lot. It's got great places to photograph. But is that enough to live there? Bangkok - well, it's Bangkok. It's always been one of my favourite places in Asia. And Singapore is certainly an option too. One of my friends thinks it's the best place for Westerners to live, since it is quite Western in it's own way. He called it "Asia Lite". I will need to make a decision soon, though. For the first time this year, I am also wondering if I should return to Vancouver...

Lately, I have been spending my days pouring over job postings online. I have been looking for both photography jobs and project manager jobs. I look for jobs in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. I hope something comes through soon. In the meantime, I am also trying to get some photos published through some Stock Photo agencies. I have been sending sample work to a few agencies, and getting favourable responses so far.

Last week, my good friend Terry came to visit me from Malaysia. Terry is an accomplished photographer and Photo Shop wizard. He knows more about photo editing than I ever will. I guess we're both unemployed photographers. Terry and I spent a few days being tourists in Hong Kong, and shot lots of photos. We had a great, but short visit.

The lease on my Hong Kong apartment is up in less than 3 weeks. Big decisions are coming up. Where, what, how, when? Mostly where, though.

Hong Kong Home

2009-06-25T17:20:00.005+07:00

Hong Kong. What can I say? It's home, at least for now. I am comfortable here. Will I stay here forever? I dunno. I'd like to. But that is yet to be seen. Over the past 8 months (yes, it's been 8 months), I've been in more of a travel mode. But now, I am more in the 'find work fast' mode.

I've really enjoyed traveling around SE Asia and China. It's provided a range of experiences that have changed me and I will never forget. But now, it's time to get back to work. I can't really be as lazy forever. I hope I remember how to work.

I am not saying that I've not done anything at all. I've been shooting 10's of thousands of photos. I've shot many portfolio shots for lots of guys. I've built up my stock library. I've spent countless hours editing photos. But none of that work is paying me, and none of it is getting me a working Visa.

I spend a lot of my time now looking for work. I keep running up against walls, though. Sometimes, it's a language thing, sometimes it's a qualification thing. Sometimes it's both. But most days, I come across nothing. But I look every day, regardless. I've applied for a few jobs recently, but haven't had any responses yet. I've come to terms with the idea that I may not be able to find a photography job here, and have been applying to jobs that play to my Project Management skills. Once I get a working visa, then I can continue to pursue my photography. Well, I will always pursue my photography, but I need the job first, right?

I am comfortable here in Hong Kong. I like my little apartment, and have plenty of friends. My apartment is nestled in the hills of Central, in the SoHo district. I have a happy domestic life, and find no shortage of things to do to occupy my days. Now that is is summer, the weather in Hong Kong is very humid. Most days are hot - about +32c - and with humidity in the high 80's or 90's. I often wonder what the point is, of taking a shower before I go out. Within a few minutes of being outdoors, I am soaking wet with a mixture of sweat and humidity.

Last week, I had the opportunity to shoot an up and coming new model here in Hong Kong, named Gabe. It was a great shoot, and we were accompanied by one of the local stylists to manage the clothing on the shoot. I am happy with the results. Gabe has received favourable feedback on the photos. Hopefully, it will generate more work for both of us.

Weekend in Pee-Nang

2009-06-02T12:54:00.007+07:00

I had a lovely weekend in Penang, Malaysia. I arrived in George Town on Friday night, and left on Monday afternoon. It was not long enough. Next time I come to Malaysia, I will definitely spend more time in this little town.

The thing that struck me about Penang, was how many old buildings were still there. Unlike many other cities in Asia, Penang is hanging on to its heritage. In 2008, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site - I suppose partly for this reason. The city of George Town has preserved much of the colonial heritage that makes it interesting. I really enjoyed exploring much of the small city on foot, and marveling in the multiculturalism. In one small area, I saw Muslim mosques, Hindu shrines, Buddhist temples and Christian churches - all within blocks of each other. I managed to find a pork lunch too - in a Swiss restaurant in the Little India area of this Muslim country.

One of the other things that surprised me about Penang, is that it is a high tech powerhouse. Many computer manufacturers have plants here, including Intel, AMD, Dell, Seagate, Western Digital, Motorola, and loads more. I had no idea that so much was made in this tiny state. And I've since learned that much of the product testing for the latest high tech gizmos is done here as well.

I shot a lot of photos of the historic areas of George Town, and I hope to return to shoot more. I can easily spend countless days photographing the many old buildings and row houses that cover every street. It's a photographers dream location.

I am back in Hong Kong for a little while again. I have some photographers to meet, friends to reconnect with, and pork to eat.

Malaysia, Truly Asia

2009-05-29T14:01:00.008+07:00

I’ve spent the last week in Kuala Lumpur (again). I keep returning to this little city for some reason. It’s my third time here in about 6 months. I wonder what the draw is? Great food? Cheap lodging? Cute boys? (Or is that cute food, great lodging and cheap boys?) Regardless of the reasons, I found myself back here enjoying it again.

I have been here enough so that it’s not really a mystery to me anymore. I kinda know what KL has to offer, and seen most of it. Some of my friends wonder why I would bother coming here, since there is little to do. And they are right, a bit. There really isn’t a lot to do. I think the most famous thing about KL are the Pertonas Towers, which are (now) the tallest twin towers in the world. They are quite beautiful buildings, to be sure. And they look spectacular at night – partly because the smog isn’t as obvious at nighttime. I’ve never been to the observation deck of these towers (there is a sky bridge connecting them), because to me, the towers ARE the view. The surrounding area is not quite as nice to look at.

I also visited the Batu Caves when I was here this time. It was on my ‘to-do list’ for KL ever since my first visit. This time I managed to get there. The caves are a Hindu Shrine nestled in the belly of a huge cave in one of the surrounding mountains of KL. It requires a climb of 1000 steps to reach the shrine. As caves go, it was pretty impressive. As shrines go, it was pretty unimpressive. The interior of the cave was extremely large, but it’s been paved inside decades ago, and the cave walls are covered in graffiti. There were plenty of macaque monkeys and Hindu monks. Some of the monks I saw there were almost as hairy as the monkeys. The caves were pretty smelly, but ultimately, it was worth the climb.

This trip really had two purposes. The first reason was to photograph a guy I’ve known for a while – Eric. He is a 20yo student that also excels at acrobatic cheerleading (you know - throw the girls up in the air, catch them, make human pyramids, etc). He’s been photographed a number of times by local photographers, and I was glad to have him in front of my camera. Eric was a trooper during the shoot, considering he wasn’t feeling well, and had a fever the following day. I am happy with the resulting images. Look for more on my website.

The other reason I came here was to meet a successful local photographer (via Eric), named Azrul Abdullah. Azrul is a successful artist here, and regularly shoots for local and international magazines. Speaking with Azrul was entertaining and informative. He explained how the business works in KL, and how to get around the corruption of the local governments. I saw a lot of his beautiful architectural images of old buildings that no longer exist. Like many Asian cities, Kuala Lumpur is going through a building boom of sorts, and they pay little attention to heritage. Azrul has done a great job documenting many of these old structures, often just before they are demolished.

Today, I am heading to another city in Malaysia called Penang. Many of my Malaysian friends encouraged me to visit this small resort town for a few days. I am told that Penang is the “center of arts and culture” in Malaysia, and is well known to have the best food in the country. I will only be there for a few days, but I look forward to exploring it.

Beautiful Beijing

2009-05-09T18:59:00.005+07:00

Hey all....
I know it's been a while for me to write. I tried and tried to log in to Blogger while I was in Beijing, but it was just blocked. That's one of the joys of China. Many, many websites are simply not available. Even basic ones like my site. I guess it's something you get used to. There is nothing about my Blog that says anything bad about China...so I don't know why.

Anyways, I really liked Beijing. It was my first time there, of course. And I know enough now, that the first time I am anywhere, I like it a lot. I thought that about Shanghai when I was there last year...and now that I've returned to it, I was less enamored with it. That said, I think there was a lot of polish and charm about Beijing, that I would like to return and see it again in detail.

There were a number of things that impressed me about Beijing. I think the strongest impression was just how big it is. The place is freakin HUGE! Seriously, it must be one of the largest cities I've been to, in square miles. And there is no real center of town. So everything is quite spread out, and it can take a long time to get anywhere. Another thing that impressed me was the sheer volume of monuments and amazing buildings. And since this is the capital city, there was every country's Embassy too.

Since I was only in Beijing for a short visit, I spent all of my time touring the 'must see' areas of the city. Those included the Forbidden City, Tian'an Men Square, the Hutongs, and the Great Wall. All of them were impressive - without exception. When I arrived in the Forbidden City, I had a rough idea of the scale of it, but even with advance reading, I was still surprised at how big it was. I spent a few hours there, but could have easily spent the whole day. There is a LOT to see. Though eventually, all the palaces/temples/shrines begin to look alike. It was seriously crowded too, mostly with Chinese nationals. I saw very few white people. As I was taking photos, I quickly learned that I will rarely get a shot of a part of the monument without people in it, so the people became the photo.

Tian'an Men Square was also impressive. It's very, very large. So large in fact, that you could drive tanks down it. (OK, Now I KNOW my blog will be banned in China.) I enjoyed wandering the square, and seeing all the Chinese people showing their patriotism. I had Peking Duck for lunch - I figured that it was a 'must eat' food. It was super greasy and fatty. No wonder it is so popular. After this, I went to see the Olympic venues, like the Bird's Nest Stadium and the Water Cube. The Stadium is seldom used now. Last week, they staged the first event in it since the Olympics. And that was a concert hosted by Jackie Chan. The Water Cube was closed to tourists, but that was fine, since the beauty of that building is on the outside.

On the next day, I hired a car and driver and took a long 2.5 hour drive to a portion of the Great Wall that is not popular with tourists. Since this is my first visit to the Wall, I thought it would be best to see it where it is not littered with khaki panted chubby tourists. The area I went to was virtually deserted. I saw about 6 other people there - it was perfect. The climb up to the Wall was slow and steep. It's on the top of a mountain, after all. I was quite tired and had to rest several times, as it was quite hot out, too. But getting to the top was worth the long climb up. It was a little hazy for photographs, but it was an amazing place to be. One more thing I can cross off my list of To-Do's in life.

On my final day, I toured the famous 798 Art Gallery area and some small hutongs. Hutongs are the small neighbourhoods made from skinny alleys linking courtyard homes together. Beijing is slowly knocking down whats left of these areas and replacing them with tall towers. The neighbourhood I visited was pretty touristy, though. You could tell it was designed to attract tourists. But I still enjoyed it.

Overall, my impression of Beijing was favourable. It was a huge, and very modern city. They clearly spend a lot of money taking care of it. I would like to see it again.

I am now back in Singapore for a little while. Singapore is one of those places that is hard to like. It's clean and organized (good qualities, I guess), but it just doesn't feel very Asian to me. It could be anywhere in Canada. More about it later, I guess.

Shanghai, Take II

2009-05-01T21:08:00.003+07:00

Hello all...
So, I've been in Shanghai for about 10 days now, and I think I kinda get it. I have to admit, though, that I am not sure I like it.

The thing about Shanghai, is that it's just not ready. The city is trying very hard to be an 'international, world class city' (hence Expo 2010, etc), but to be honest, it's full of people that are not anywhere near that. I can't count how many times I've been spit on, or dodged a spit bomb since I've been here. And at the risk of sounding xenophobic, why aren't there more English speaking people here? I find myself speaking in charades or using my little translation computer a lot. I know the responsibility for speaking the local language is mine, but you'd think that in the tourist areas, there would be SOME staff that speak English.

I know that a lot of my posts here in my blog sound like a big complaint about why this city or that city is not like it is back home. I don't want this Blog to be just that. And I understand and recognize that there are significant cultural differences from country to country. But the fact of the matter is that there are some minimal world standards that should be met, regardless of where I am in the world.

So, keep that in mind, when you read about my current rants/observations about Shanghai. =)

- Construction is at a fevered pace for Expo 2010. This is Shanghai's debut as a world city, so that means they are trying to make the city ready for the millions of people they are expecting to visit. So the roads are in total chaos. The Bund, which is one of the most popular tourist areas, is completely gone. It's one big pit now, and you can't walk anywhere.

- I mentioned before, that the Metro system is modern and efficient. But what I didn't say is that the riders of the metro are far from modern or efficient. If you're unlucky enough to be on the train during rush hour, you had best be prepared to be crushed. Ordinarily, its customary to allow people to exit the train car before people enter the car. Not so, here. I've almost missed my exit a few times, because I mistakenly was too polite and didn't push my way off the train. I've since learned to put my elbows up and push my way out. If I don't, I may never get off the car.

- Some of the other oddities I've seen on the metro, and the 'regular' trains that I've been on, is that people will actually sit on the floor. They just park themselves down among the feet of others. Also, I've seen on more than one occasion, people eating food like sunflower seeds, and spitting the waste out onto the floor. Lovely.

- Their is a discernible hierarchy among street traffic. It goes like this: trucks - buses - cars - motorbikes - bicycles - oxen and other animals - people. If you're walking on the street (sidewalks included), you are expected to be vigilant for all vehicles that are coming towards you. Even crossing a street in a crosswalk is no guarantee of safety. Cars and buses will aim right for you, and you are expected to stop to let them pass. I've almost been hit many, many times by taxis here. And I am in the wrong, no matter what. It is my fault regardless. Motorbikes will drive on sidewalks if its clearer than the roads, and you are obligated to allow them to do so. If a taxi/motorbike honks their horn, that is enough legal notice. You MUST move. Pedestrians are the lowest of the low here. I wonder if it's some kind of natural cull of an already burgeoning population?

- There are a lot of vehicles here that you just won't see anywhere else. When I was in Xitang, just outside of Shanghai, I saw plenty of 3 wheeled trucks and taxis. And they were not just large motorbikes - they were large car and truck sized vehicles. They just missed a front wheel, and I am not sure why. Are tires that expensive in China? The vehicles seemed rather unstable, and look like they could be tipped over quite easily.

On Sunday, I will be heading up to Beijing for a week or so. I've been doing my research so that I can maximize the use of my time there. I know that there will be some "must-do's" when I am there, like the Great Wall and the Forbidden City. I hope to see parts of the city that are not as touristy as well. But I think that might be a bit unlikely.

Shanghai, Shanglow

2009-04-24T17:53:00.002+07:00

Hello from Shanghai. I've been here for almost a week. I know that most of you have been expecting a blog post much sooner than today, but it's very difficult to log on to my Blog. I've learned that many sites I am used to viewing, are not accessible here in China (like my personal website, Youtube, Blogger).

I am learning a lot about Shanghai, and China in general. Before I arrived in China, I admit that I had a somewhat naive view of what I would expect when I got here. I guess I had stars in my eyes - thinking that Shanghai was the center of what is the future of the world. I think I was wrong. A bit.

Shanghai is indeed an interesting city. I believe that Shanghai likes to refer to itself as an 'International, World Class City'. After having been here for a week, I am not so sure. I think it has a lot of growing up, before it can join the ranks of London, Paris, New York...or even Vancouver. I am not qualified to state what it is that it needs to meet that esoteric criteria, but I can just tell it doesn't possess it, yet.

Granted, one of the things that makes Shanghai exciting, is that is it constantly changing. This city is under perpetual construction. It seems that every major road is dug up these days. Shanghai is the host of the World Expo in 2010, so the preparations are in full force. I am sure they will put on a great Expo, but for now, the city is in total chaos.

A few days ago, I visited the number one tourist attraction in Shanghai - The Yuyuan Gardens. I didn't do a lot of research in advance, because I wanted it to be fresh when I got there. But I was pretty disappointed, because I was expecting to see an area of Shanghai that was authentic and historical. What I saw was a recreation of a Shanghai of the past. The Gardens and village portend to be a village from the 1500's. But what I learned was that it was destroyed in the 1800's opium wars, and recreated in the 1950's as a tourist attraction. So it was very commercial, complete with a McDonald's and Starbucks in the middle of the village (no, I didn't go in).

Some other recent observations about Shanghai:

- This city loves to shop. And there are a lot of great malls here. No bargains to be had, though. I have not bought anything yet, because I have not seen anything here that I haven't seen elsewhere. There are 5 or 6 Best Buy stores here, too. I went in to one today, and was impressed. The product range was extensive. They even carried a lot of seriously expensive Nikon lenses that most high end camera stores in Canada would not stock.

- The Metro is cheap, fast and efficient. I've had no problem working out my way around the city. There are about 8 or 9 train lines, and they keep building more (see above re: perpetual construction).

- The city is huge. There are about 18 million people here. My initial observation is that about 2 million of them are...um....normal regular world citizens. And the other 16 Million people are completely unaware that there is a world outside of Shanghai. I've had to dodge spit bombs from random people on the street more times than I can count. People hang their laundry to dry on trees and power lines down every street.

- This city loves to drink. Or at least they seem to be very competitive about finding drinkers. I happily obliged one establishment last night, during their "All you can drink" promotion. Normally, I avoid buffets because I don't think they are good for the value. But I made the exception this time. I was glad I did. Though, I was a bit worse for wear today.

I am here for another 8 days or so, before I head to Beijing. It's been raining a lot lately, so I have not been out too much. But it's supposed to start getting nice tomorrow. I hope to get out to shoot more photos soon.

Shenzhen Notes

2009-04-19T18:22:00.002+07:00

I spent the last 4 days in the border town of Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, China. Shenzhen surprises me, as it is a pretty modern city. Like many cities in China, there has been a significant building boom in the last few decades, and it is clearly evident in this bustling town.

Shenzhen is situated directly across the border from Hong Kong (indeed you can see HK at a distance, if you know what you’re looking at). It is so close, that you can simply take the HK MRT subway into the city. In fact, many do that every day. Thousands of Hong Kong citizens make their home in Shenzhen, and cross the border to go to work. The cost of living in this Chinese border town is significantly lower than it is in Hong Kong. And considering how close it is, its no wonder people commute here every day.

The thing that strikes me as different here in Shenzhen, are the modern high-rise apartment buildings. I was amazed at the visual quality and style that is present. Compared to Hong Kong, the towers here are considerably more modern. Most of the towers look like they were designed recently, to international standards, and to appeal to westerners (of whom there is a very sizable population). Hong Kong towers, on the other hand, all look like they were designed by one person in the 70’s (except maybe some very recent buildings).

Some other notable observations about Shenzhen:

1) There are a LOT of bicycles here. Way more than in Hong Kong. I guess owning a car in China is still a luxury many don’t spend money on. Also, a large amount of the bikes are electric powered. I like that idea.

2) I visited what had to be the largest restaurant I’ve ever seen. It was called “Japan Fusion”, and seemed like it could seat a few thousand people. It was multi layered, beautifully designed, and had a massive (fake) tree and a flowing waterfall running through the middle of the room.

3) When I was in a local pub close to my hotel, a young couple brought their infant in. This club was dark, smoky, and had music so loud you had to yell to be heard a few inches apart. I am not sure why they would bring their baby into a club like this, at 11pm. I suppose to save on babysitting?

4) No one trusts the money. There are money scanners at every register in every store. All notes are run through the scanner to ensure its’ legitimacy. I’ve never encountered any fake money yet, but this common practice assures me I will at some point.

5) Sex sells. Well, that’s true everywhere of course. But it’s clearly evident here. Prostitutes and Money Boys are in abundance in bars, and in unofficial red light areas. Shenzhen is famous for it’s Massages, as well. I am not suggesting that they are inextricably linked, but I think in many cases, they are one and the same.

6) Booze comes in buckets. I was in what was apparently the largest Gay bar in Shenzhen. It was seriously smoky and crowded. When I was there, there was an endless parade of bad karaoke singing, by young guys with an inability to recognize the notes. I give them credit for trying, though. All the music appeared to be from the 80’s and 90’s, and none of it was western, of course.

When drinks were ordered, they typically ordered by table. And the waiters would appear with a large bucket with several bottles and jugs. They would prepare the drinks at the table, and start pouring. Typically, the drinks were Jack Daniels and Coke, and were drunk rapidly. Many of the guys would play a drinking game, using dice. Guess the dice numbers wrong, and you take a drink. I saw one guy proudly wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with the glittery words “I’m Hotist”. I understand the sentiment, but not the spelling. And no, he was not Hot.

I will be in Shanghai for a few weeks now. I hope I will be able to find some hint of work in this city. I anticipate that the business climate will be much better in this busy town.

Farewell, Taipei

2009-04-14T08:06:00.003+07:00

I am writing this, as I sit in a Starbucks at the Taipei International Airport. Neither of those two things should be a surprise to my loyal readers (another airport, another Starbucks). It's Tuesday morning, and I am on my way to China today.

I will actually fly back through Hong Kong, but I won't go through immigration and enter the city this time. I am simply transiting through the airport and catching a ferry to the city of Shenzhen. Shenzhen is the closest neighbouring city to Hong Kong, located in the province of Guangdong. Pardon me, if I spelled any of that incorrectly.

The ferry ride is the easiest and simplest way to enter Hong Kong from the airport. I am told it takes about 30 minutes, and the line up for immigration on 'the other side' is short and quick. I am looking forward to the journey. I will be in Shenzhen for 4 days, and then I fly to Shanghai on Saturday. Yay!

I have some final thoughts on Taipei. As with any city, Taipei has it's own flavour and style. I've noticed a few oddities, though. For instance:

1) I was surprised to see that the police cars were BMW's. Maybe not all of them, but the ones I saw were. I guess the financial crises is not as hard here?

2) As is the case in most of Asia, school kids wear uniforms. But here in Taipei, they all seem to wear various shades of blue polyester track suits. That certainly makes them easy to spot, since you can see large waves of blue sweatpants-covered kids walking in packs all over the city.

3) I am used to seeing lots of vendors selling street food in any city. But what makes Taipei unique, is that they all seem to wander around. I saw several food vendors pushing their sausage or squid carts up and down the street, looking for customers. Wouldn't it be simpler to just stay in one place and have the customers follow the scent to the food stand?

Here is a photo of a fellow I photographed here in Taipei, named Damien. Damien is a dance instructor here, and has seen the lens pointed at him a number of times.

Taipei 101 (the entry level course, not the building)

2009-04-10T16:29:00.005+07:00

So, here I am in Taipei. This is my second time here, having made the trip last May. I remember that last year, I really liked it here, and spoke highly of it. So, I thought it would be worth visiting again.

To me, Taipei has always been a mixture of what is good about Hong Kong, and what is good about China. You can clearly see the influences of both in this city. Taipei is a fairly wealthy city, largely due to the influence of the hi-tech industry here. Taiwan is world renowned for the quality of their electronics manufacturing sector. With the abundance of construction of tall buildings here, you'd wonder where the signs of a financial crises are.

I have not been here for a full day yet, but I have a few interesting observations. One of the things that struck me as different, compared to Hong Kong, is the proliferation of motorbikes here. There are equally as many motorbikes as there are cars here. And they travel in packs, just like Vietnam. Also, you can see the how the city is encouraging bicycle travel too. There is a large network of bikes that you can rent, all over the city. I've heard of this concept in Amsterdam, but this is the first time I've seen it in Asia. They city has developed a large network of bicycle paths all over the core, to accommodate the encouraged bicycle traffic. It's really a clever (and cheap) system.

I have not succumbed to the pressure of visiting the top of the tallest building - The Taipei 101 - yet. But, who knows, I just may before the visit is over. I am not all that excited about doing that sort of touristy type things, but it's such a nice looking building, and there are not many tall towers near it so the view should be good.

I will be here until Tuesday and I think the weather will be fairly decent. It's supposed to be +27 and sunny both days this weekend. I am looking forward to some nice hot weather.

Observations, Part II

2009-03-29T16:42:00.005+07:00

OK....I've decided to talk more about the things I've noticed about Hong Kong. As you know, I am a keen observer of the human condition. And there is LOTS to see in Hong Kong.

Bag Lady
Back home in Canada, we have the term 'Bag Lady'. Generally, it refers to a homeless woman who wanders the streets pushing a shopping cart. She would have dozens of bags attached to the cart, filled with all manner of recyclables and usable goods. Here in Hong Kong, there is a woman that is well known, that puts a new spin on the definition. This woman actually WEARS plastic bags on her body and head. She ties them up into knots, and applies them to various body parts. She basically encases herself head-to-toe in plastic bags. You can't really see her face, and she lays down on the ground in plastic splendor. I've seen here occupying a few street corners in Central, usually at one of the major zebra crossings, in order to beg for coins.

Tidy Construction
Hong Kong is under perpetual construction (and destruction) like most cities around the world. But what amazes me about roadwork here, is just how neat and tidy it is. There is a construction site near my apartment that exemplifies this concept perfectly. I am not entirely certain what they are doing, but basically its a huge pit in the street - I guess it has something to do with underground piping or wiring. But what makes it strange to me, is that every day after quitting time, they dismantle the construction site and cover it up like it never existed. And the next morning they return, put up the fencing, remove the flat metal plates that cover the large hole, and bring the heavy equipment back. So in the daytime, it's a chaotic site with dozens of people in a huge pit, with several large diggers. And at night, thousands and thousands of people walk over the covered hole oblivious to whats underneath the metal sidewalk.

Super Cleanliness
Every morning, on my daily pilgrimage to Starbucks, I have to go up 2 floors to get there. And every morning, 7 days a week, there is a small army of people scrubbing the place down like it had never been cleaned before. Just how dirty does the floor get every day, that they need to polish it every morning? There is a woman that is on all fours, with a scrubber looking for shoe scuff marks. They wipe down the escalators, step by step. They feather dust every nook and cranny, and make all the glass surfaces squeaky clean. Every day. And this happens everywhere. This city is obsessed with cleaning.

Signs
Signs are a way of life here in Hong Kong. There is nary a flat vertical surface on any building without a huge sign on it. In fact, it's pretty clear that buildings are designed in order to maximize the sellable space for signage. The city is well known for it's neon signs that hang out perpendicular from the buildings over the roads. And what gets me, is that the large advertising billboards (I am talking about signs 20 stories high) are replaced very frequently. No sooner do I become familiar with a large ad, then it is taken down and replaced overnight. I think there is a whole subset of the population here that rappel down buildings in the middle of the night putting up huge new Adidas ads.

Walking with Beer
Public drinking is not illegal here. I've seen, on many occasions, men dressed in suits walking down the street with a can of beer in their hand. And even more strangely is that I've seen it at 8 in the morning. Guys will walk in to the local 7-11, and buy a tin, pop it open and slurp it down, on their way to work.

Maximum use of space
Hong Kong is a city of about 7 million people (plus one!). Yet, it's a small city in area. And what makes it interesting, is just how clever developers and city planners are with space utilization. I guess that they are forced to think about the best possible way to fit everything in. In Canada, this is not really a problem, since the country is huge. As an example, here in Hong Kong, petrol stations are very often located underneath bridges and overpasses. Since this city is hilly, there are lots of elevated roads, and what better use for that space? I've also noticed that people don't live on the ground floors here. All buildings are designed to hold businesses in the lower floors. What would often be unusable space anywhere else in the world is valuable real estate here. If there is an empty space, somebody is selling something in it.

Umbrellas
It's been raining a bit here lately. And as noted previously, I am a bit taller than the average person in Asia. If you combine rain, umbrellas and a short population, you can imagine just how dangerous it is for me to walk on the streets when it is raining. The rain won't stop people from being outdoors, so the streets are just as crowded, except they all have umbrellas. And they are all pointed at my eyes. I am constantly dodging the business end of countless umbrellas from short women who can't see my head from underneath the canopy of nylon. I am always batting away their weapons, and they don't know why.

Update on plans...
I will be leaving Hong Kong on Thursday, heading to Taipei for 5 days. I really enjoyed my time in Taiwan last year, and I look forward to going back. I would like to explore other parts of the country, but once again, I will remain in the city. After Taipei, I will enter China for a month, starting with Shenzhen (and possibly Guangzhou). I will fly up to Shanghai in the middle of April and look around there. I think you can expect more regular blog posts from me once I am traveling again.

Daily Routine

2009-03-13T19:05:00.005+07:00

It's Friday night, here in Hong Kong. I am nesting comfortably in my little Serviced Apartment. Living in Hong Kong is not as exciting as I once imagined. I suppose that once you change from traveler/tourist mode to that of a resident, things become different.

I have settled into a routine here. Every morning, I get up (usually about 8 am), splash some water on my face and hair, put some jeans and a t-shirt on, and then go down to Starbucks. They know me very well at the local shop. The lead Barista, Wilma, mockingly scolds me if I am 'late'. Wilma tells me that her father named her after the character in The Flintstones. She has a sister named Betty. I don't even bother placing an order. As soon as she sees me enter the shop, they draw my Venti Americano. I guess I am a regular. Once, she wrote my name on the cup, along with a little heart.

After I get my mega coffee, I head back to the apartment, and begin my morning online. I check email/junk mail. I respond to whatever I need to, and then dig in to job sites. Every morning, I scour all the local and international sites for new postings. There are less and less postings all the time. Essentially, there are none in Hong Kong. All I am seeing are for jobs in other countries. At this point, I am applying for them. Who knows?

After a morning of job hunting, I either go to the gym or to Yoga. Most days it is Yoga. I found a great studio, not far from my apartment. They are one of the few studios that do Hot Yoga, which I prefer. Sadly though, the price is quite expensive. The monthly rate is about 3x what I was paying in Vancouver. But the upside is that I quite like the classes. There is a wide cross section of teachers, from all over the world, and most of them make the class quite enjoyable. I was used to "Bikrams Yoga" in Vancouver, but I am now learning all sorts of new postures (that I am barely able to perform), so my practice is growing. I also like that the teachers usually play music in the studios. Music helps me to relax, so it makes sense.

After Yoga, I head back home to work on some photos. I've made some major updates to my 'boys' website (link to the right), with several new guys added. I am now preparing to update my 'travel/art' site with many of the stuff I shot during my travels. I am also planning to do a re-design of both sites to make them more current.

At night, I try to meet up with friends for dinner, or a movie. It's not every night, but fairly frequent. I know a lot of people here, really. Most of them are encouraging me to find work here and stay in HK. It's just not that simple.

Sooner or later, I will have to leave Hong Kong, if I don't find work here. My Visa expires in the middle of April, and the lease on my apartment is up at the end of March. If I end up leaving Hong Kong, I will most likely head north into China, since I have a visa that allows me to. The job market in China is only slightly better than here in HK. The other places I am considering going to are Thailand and Malaysia. I am not sure the work climate is any better - but I do like those countries a lot.

This photo was shot yesterday, when I went to a small HK Island village called Shek O. It is a picturesque little town with lots of colourful houses and several beaches. This photo was shot by my friend Woody (retouching by me).

Observations

2009-03-01T19:51:00.004+07:00

I've been in Hong Kong for a little over one month now. And I intend to stay here for another month. That is the best excuse I have for not writing more often. I think I've been running out of things to say. The whole point of this blog was to talk about my travels in SE Asia. But I haven't really been traveling....

However, I've started to notice things about Hong Kong, that I've never really thought about, before. Perhaps having lived here for a while, I am feeling more like a resident, and less like a wide-eyed tourist. I've been to Hong Kong many times, of course, but some things are starting to become evident to me that I have never really noticed before.

For instance:

1) Restaurant Service.
I've eaten in a large number of restaurants in Hong Kong, and Asia in general. But one thing I am really struggling to get used to, is how poor the service is in restaurants. Maybe I am just too fussy, but I just don't quite get the way they do things here. If you order an appetizer, a main, and a dessert...good luck getting them in THAT order. I often get the appetizer after the main course. When I press them for an explanation, it's usually "oh, we just type them in to the computer, we can't control the order they are delivered...". And if you are dining with a friend, it is pretty common for one person to get ALL of their food before the other will get any. And it's a good chance that they will get their dessert first. Very strange system here. And, they have the balls to charge for service automatically, even if the service is quite bad. Is the service really bad, because the staff are paid so poorly? Or this the accepted standard here in Asia?

2) Slow walkers.
I am staying in Causeway Bay, in Hong Kong. This is arguably one of the busiest areas of Hong Kong. There are always tens of thousands of people here on the streets at all times. But they walk SO SLOWLY! It's really a dramatic contradiction of how busy the city is. I've never really thought of myself as a fast walker, but I sure seem to be, in this city. Maybe my legs are really long? And I've noticed that people seem to be completely oblivious to others on the street. They will turn their head one way, and walk the other way. In a regular small city, this wouldn't matter much, but in Hong Kong they are constantly walking into others. And for some reason, when they walk in groups (very common), they walk slower, and side-by-side-by-side, blocking access to the sidewalk to all others. Why does this happen?

3) Groceries.
I went to the local supermarket recently. I understand that the Asian diet is a lot different, but it's not just that, that makes me scratch my head. I wanted to buy a loaf of bread, but they don't sell WHOLE loaves of bread. They only sell loaves with the ends cut off. Imagine a loaf of bread, then reduce is to the middle section, and that is what you get. Don't people like crusts here? And even then, the bread is square - not bread shaped. Weird.

4) Clothing
There is definitely a discernible style here. I never really noticed it in the past, but you can really see a Hong Kong style. It's not quite like other countries. Of course, I've been noticing mostly men, though. The body shape has a lot to do with it, too. Since HK men are usually quite slender, they are able to wear clothes that accentuate or flatter the body. So, that means slim cut pants with small waists, and sweaters or shirts that are fit to the body. Colours are bold, and fabrics are top quality. Even though guys here attempt to create an individual style, there still seems to be a uniform among all of them. I really stand out here, dressing as a Westerner.

I will be updating one of my websites in the next few days, posting photos of all the guys I've shot while on my travels in the south. Stay tuned!

Hanging in Hongy

2009-02-12T09:20:00.008+07:00

Yeah, yeah. I know it's been a long time since my last post. I was pretty good there for a while, adding new stuff every few days. But, since I've been here in Hong Kong for a few weeks, I have less stuff to say.

I have rented a Service Apartment, in the Causeway Bay area on Hong Kong Island. This area is known as the shopping mecca (well, all of HK is a shopping mall), and is popular with local youth. There are a gazillion restaurants and stores within walking distance of the place I am staying in. It's interesting (to me) that despite the wide variety of restaurants in the area, I always seem to end up eating Japanese food. I think I am going to turn into a salmon pretty soon, with all the sashimi I've been eating.

Last week, I managed to catch a cold. I suppose that is not that surprising, considering the throngs of people all over the city during New Years. It was not a bad cold, but it did slow me down a little. I was lethargic, and pretty lazy. I stayed indoors most of the time watching movies.

Over the last 10 days or so, I've been sorting and sifting through the 10,000+ images I've shot since I left Canada. It's a tough job to weed out the mediocre images and choose the best. It's time consuming and boring, really. But I am glad I've done it. I've had to upgrade my skills using the editing software on my computer. I am using Adobe Lightroom 2.1, and it's a very deep, impressive software. It's taken me a while to get the hang of it, but I quite like it. I spend most of the day working on images now, and will be updating my online portfolios in the next week or so. Here are some sample images that show some of my recent work of a guy in Bangkok named Tommi.

I've applied for my Visitor's Visa for China this week. China has not relaxed their restrictions enough, though. The best I could get was a double-entry 6 month Visa. It allows me to enter the country twice, but for a maximum of 30 days. It's not very good, but it's a start. I have not chosen a date that I will go to China yet. I may stay here in Hong Kong another month and then go in April. I have to make a decision soon, I guess.

Food and Shelter

2009-02-01T20:54:00.004+07:00

It's now Sunday night, and I am settled in to my new place. I have rented an apartment in the Causeway Bay area of Hong Kong for a month. More on this later in the post.

As you know, it's been Chinese New Year while I have been here. Originally, I thought that it would be a cool thing to be here during CNY. I was quite wrong. Back home in Vancouver, it seemed like it was a lot of fun. But here in Hong Kong, it's not at all what I was expecting. For most Chinese people (or Asians I guess), CNY is about family. And food. Or eating food with your family. Most Asian festivals are all about shopping, but not CNY. During New Years, the city just shuts down. Stores remain closed for days and days. People just go from one relatives house to another, observing customs.

I've spoken with a few friends about their experiences during CNY visits with their relatives. Most of them just dread the process, and really don't look forward to New Years at all. Every year, they are hit with the same barrage of questions from nosy relatives. If they were still in school, it was all about the grades, what they planned to study in University, and how much better their cousins were doing, compared to them. If they were working, it was all about how much money they were making, when they were going to be made Partner (or whatever), and how much better their cousins are doing, compared to them. And then of course, the questions about girlfriends and marriage come up - which is a very stressful series of questions for my friends. A whole lot of lying goes on at Chinese New Years.

I had the opportunity to share a few meals with John and his Father. I cannot believe the amount of food we ate over two days. John was very glad that I came along to help them eat all the food. He called me a "stomach for hire". Each meal was suitable for about twice as many people. It was very good food (I had abalone for the first time), but it was just so much!

As mentioned, I've rented an apartment in Hong Kong. This is a "serviced apartment" which is sort of a mix of hotel and apartment. I get occasional maid service, and there is a small kitchenette, and it has typical hotel facilities. It's amazing how the apartments are measured here. When I was looking at some suites, the Agent would tell me "this is 600 square feet" or something like that. But it was pretty clear that the place was A LOT smaller than he claimed. But I've learned that they use a different measuring method here. I think they call it "developers measurement" or some such. They take into account the common hallway, the stairwells and elevators. A 600sf place is really more like 300sf.

I do like the small suite I am in. It's just a studio apartment, but the developers made great use of the space. The kitchen and wardrobe are hidden behind sliding walls, and the TV flips from the ceiling. I have 5 remote controls. I just wish it didn't cost so much. It's cheaper than a hotel, but much more than rents in Vancouver.

Am I a Honky now?

2009-01-29T19:01:00.003+07:00

I've made a decision. I am gonna stay in Hong Kong for about a month. As a Canadian, I am allowed to stay for 90 days, upon entry into Hong Kong. So, it's a non-effort for me to stay here. All I have to do is find a place to stay (and I am working on that part).

Over the last few days, I've been absorbing all there is to Chinese New Years. It's considerably different than it is in Vancouver. Back in (my old home) Vancouver, it's almost transparent to the non-Asian residents. There are the obvious "Kung Hei Fat Choy" posters all over the place, but unless you're Asian, that's about all you really notice. Here in Hong Kong, it's WAY different. It seems to be the most important event in the Chinese year. The whole city/country/race shuts down from their regular hectic life, to observe all manner of tradition and superstition.

It's kinda weird to walk around Hong Kong on a weekday afternoon, and see empty streets and closed shops. This is a city that normally runs 20 hours a day, every day. It was like a ghost town here. Very odd. Now that it is "day 4" of the new year, shops are open again, and it's back to normal.

Now that I am in Hong Kong, I am venturing out of my comfort zone, and trying all kinds of other foods. Stuff that I would not normally eat. The Honkies love to put all sorts of things into buns. If it's in a bun, it must be good. Today, I had a green bun with stuff in it that I cannot identify, but it was very tasty - whatever it was. I think that the Chinese have a passion for baked goods that is only equaled in France.

It will be interesting to stay in Hong Kong for a month. I will be spending time working on my portfolio. I've shot a LOT of photos over the last 3 months while I've been traveling. Stay tuned for a Flickr site with a bunch of photos that should allow you to see what I've experienced. I will likely head into China sometime in March.

Happy New Year (again)

2009-01-26T09:45:00.005+07:00

Today is New Years Day in Asia, using the Lunar Calendar. I am in Hong Kong during this period, and it's an interesting celebration to witness. Of course, Chinese New Year is celebrated in Canada and around the world, but it's not quite as spectacular as it is here in Asia. The crowds of people here make the celebration a huge awe-inspiring event.

The Chinese people are pretty traditional, and superstitious. I am slowly learning all the various traditions that are to observed, so as to not bring myself bad luck. My Ex, John is here visiting his Father, and he has been very helpful with explaining the superstitions that I need to be aware of. For instance, you have to wear new underwear on New Years eve. Apparently, it's bad luck to be wearing old Y-Fronts when the clock hits midnight.

Last night, on NY Eve, we went to Victoria Park, which is where the Night Market takes place in HK on CNY. It was SOOO crowded. The throngs of people were so thick at some places that it was impossible to move. Most of the items for sale at this market were flowers, inflatable toys, and anything to do with the Ox (since this is the Year of the Ox). Tomorrow night, there will be a large fireworks display over Victoria Harbour. I am sure that will be super crowded, too.

I think there will be a lot of photo opportunities over the next few days. It's kinda cold here, but it's nice and not raining. So it's great to be outdoors to take it all in. It will be nice to see my local friends again, since many of them are off from work and school, for the New Years period.

The Philippines Observer

2009-01-23T18:28:00.002+07:00

I've had a few days in the bustling metropolis that is Manila, to take it all in and make my list of observations. It's a very curious city, that is unique in it's own way. It's kinda hard to define Manila, and the Philippines, in comparison to other cities/countries, but I will do my best to help you, gentle reader, to understand what this place is like. Strap yourself in, and lets go....

1) The Filipinos are a proud people. They are deeply religious, in a Catholic way. It controls all that they do, and affects them in ways they can't comprehend. Since about 90% of the population is Catholic - it's the 4th largest Catholic nation in the world, in terms of sheer numbers (ahead of even Italy) - the Vatican has a significant influence on daily life here. Contraception is difficult to talk about, or find information on. It is not taught in schools, and counselors that are willing to help with contraception are underground. I've seen an alarming amount of young people with children of their own. It's not uncommon for families to have 8 - 12 children. It's quite amazing to witness.

2) Manila is bereft of cultural things. I tried in vain to find something to do that had a smidgen of culture attached to it. It was pretty difficult to find anything. There is nothing like a world-class museum here, a la MOMA or the Tate. All of the listings I've found online, were for 'museums' that are a small room in a University or office building. The Centre of Culture in Manila is in the form of a large shopping mall. It's called "The Mall of Asia". I think you're supposed to say that in a booming voice.

3) Continuing on the 'proud' mention earlier, it's interesting to note that people here are quite proud to wear a uniform. Of any kind. It seems to give them a sense of belonging. It doesn't matter if it is a uniform from a fast-food outlet, or for a school, or a department store...they wear it everywhere. In Canada, people would not be caught dead in an outfit that identified where they work. The moment they leave the job, the uniform is off. Not here in the Philippines. It's like a badge of honour.

4) Dogs have jobs. I've been sniffed by 'guard dogs' lots of times here. The dogs look quite bored, because they never smell anything. I wonder just how often they get to sniff anything other than some humans butt?

5) Filipinos have an amazing capacity to accept things that are already old in other parts of the world. Case in point: I was in a magazine store, and there were many magazines that had dates from 2006. This, in a store that should thrive on up-to-date information.

6) Traffic is abysmal here. Sometimes it's just easier to walk. Cars just go nowhere. During rush hour, traffic lights are ignored, and traffic directors take over, but not everyone observes their direction. It's total chaos.

7) People are smaller here. It's hard to describe, but just imagine that most men here are about 8- 12 inches shorter than their counterparts in Canada or USA. It's quite interesting to note. Sure, there are the exceptions, but the general population are tiny. Both men and women. Finding clothes that fit me is kinda difficult.

So, tomorrow I am heading back to Hong Kong. It's been close to 3 months since I've been there, and I am looking forward to being back. I will be there to observe Chinese New Years. It should be fun. When I am there, I will also attempt to obtain my Visitor's Visa for China. The offices in Hong Kong are closed for CNY, but once they open, I will be there, waiting.

No Thrilla in Manila...

2009-01-21T17:05:00.003+07:00

So here I am in Manila. This is my second time here, having been here about 8 months ago, back in May of '08. Back then, oh-so-long-ago, I was less then enamored with the place. Manila seems to me to be one big slum followed by another big slum.

There are a few things about Manila that stand out to me, and this visit just confirms it.

1) There is a much more visible divide amongst the rich and poor here. There is a significant middle class, but the poor largely outnumber them. It's very common to see large, expensive shopping malls with high end shops in them, and across the street you will see shanty towns with thousands of shacks made from spare sheet metal and cardboard. It's also normal to see young children begging on street corners or selling newspapers or flowers at stoplights. Sad, really.

2) What is with all the armed guards everywhere? It's a standard routine to be frisked and metal-detected every time you enter a mall or hotel here. In the one day I've been in Manila, I've gone through about 10 metal detectors and been patted down more times than I can count. Is the terrorist risk that high here? Or is it just a way to keep people employed? I get the impression that it's a prestigious job to be a security guard in Manila. You get to wear a uniform and carry a gun. Hot.

3) The posting I made about the traffic system in Asia is being proved right here. Traffic is a constant snarl here, and I think it is because they've adopted the American traffic rules here. There are stop lights everywhere, and traffic seems to be at a standstill all the time. It's like one big red traffic light. Nothing seems to move.

I have a few more days here in Manila (or Po-Land, as I like to call it. Hey Ritchie!). I am hoping that I will find some interesting, cultural things to do. I am sure there must be a museum or art gallery somewhere here. I have not taken any photos yet. So far, I have not seen anything worth the pixels.

Buh Bye, Thailand

2009-01-19T18:56:00.004+07:00

Today is my last day in Thailand (for a while, at least). I've been in Chiang Mai for the last 4 days or so. It's been nice and relaxing. It's quite a contrast to Bangkok. Chiang Mai is like Bangkok's lazy kid brother that sits around all day, drinks Singha beer and spends it's nights shopping. The hustle and bustle that I am familiar with in Bangkok is conspicuously absent here. Sure there are a LOT of street-side hawkers, but it's just not on the same level.

Yesterday, I visited the 26th Annual Bor Sang Umbrella Festival. It's not as boring as it sounds. It was very colourful and informative. I never really knew what went into the making of a paper umbrella (not the ones in fruity drinks - but the real ones). It was pretty fascinating to see the construction process of this centuries-old handicraft. And I got some terrific photos as a bonus. While I was there, I got my camera backpack painted too. The same guy that paints the umbrellas painted a big gold and red dragon on my backpack. Pretty cool.

It seems that all the street shopping in Thailand is done at night. I assume that is mostly because it's usually too freaking hot in the day time. Outside my hotel, there is the 'Famous' Night Bazaar. They call it famous, but I am not sure what makes it so. Also, on Sunday nights, there is another market called the Tha Pae Walking Street market. Basically, a normally busy street is shut down to traffic and becomes a night market. This one in particular is full of vendors that sell home-made crafts and art. There is very little of the knock-off polo shirts and Diesel jeans at that market. And, I've come to the conclusion that every blind person in Thailand works as a music busker in a market somewhere. There were dozens of performers - all blind - in this market. Good for them, I guess.

I ate at a great restaurant in a new hotel in the street market area. The hotel is called "U Chiang Mai". It's a very beautiful hotel, and the street-front restaurant and bar was a nice respite from the crowded market. I was expecting to eat some yummy Thai food, but instead I had a cheeseburger. My choice was quickly made, when I saw the item listed on the menu. They called it the "U Bugger". It was the obvious choice.

Tomorrow, I am heading to Manila for a few days. I have not made too many plans yet. I assume some shopping will happen. It's supposed to rain, a lot.

Tough Choice

2009-01-18T17:11:00.004+07:00

So, I've noticed two 'opportunities' since I've been here in Thailand. They are very different, but both have their charms. I've added a Poll to my site, so you can vote on which one you think I am more suited for, after you read about them.

First up is "Monk for a Month". In 30 short days, I can be ordained as a Novice Monk. I could actually do it sooner (in 7 days), but why not go 'all in'? If you check out the link, you can see all the benefits that I would enjoy, along with the costs of enjoying them. I'd have to give up a lot, though. Listed here are the 10 precepts required of a Novice:

1. Refrain from killing living things
2. Refrain from stealing
3. Refrain from sexual misconduct
4. Refrain from lying and gossiping
5. Refrain from taking intoxicants (drugs, alcohol)
6. Refrain from taking food at inappropriate times (after noon)
7. Refrain from singing, dancing, playing music or attending performances
8. Refrain from wearing perfume, cosmetics and decorative accessories
9. Refrain from sitting on high chairs and sleeping on luxurious, soft beds
10. Refrain from accepting money

It might be tough giving up drinking, singing, soft beds, money and sexual misconduct. But think of the benefits! Orange robes, shaved heads, being amongst lots of other men (oh wait, that's #3).

The second choice is becoming an Island Caretaker for an island in the Great Barrier Reef, off the coast of Northern Australia. This is a tourism promotion from the Queensland Tourism Board, called "the Best Job in the World". Basically, I'd get to sit on a beautiful island for 6 months, and get paid heaps of money for very little work. I would have to write a blog once a week (I think I can do that, clearly), shoot some video footage, take a bunch of photos for the blog, and wander around the island every day. Oh - and snorkeling in the Reef every day, too.

This second one sounds a lot like a reality TV show, but even if it is, it'd be worth while. Plus, if I apply and win, I'd get to bring a friend. Please start your applications now. Just in case.

So? Place your vote.

Gold Scaffolding

2009-01-17T21:23:00.005+07:00

Today was my first full day in Chiang Mai. It was rather enjoyable. I started the day off with big mugga Starbucks (2 stores within a 2 block radius of my hotel). The weather is a tad bit chilly, but it's still quite pleasant. It was warm enough to wear shorts. All the Thai locals were wearing wool sweaters and scarves, but us Farangs were wearing shorts and t-shirts. I guess we are a hardier bunch. =)

This morning, I went to the local tourist trap: the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple. This temple is perched high atop the local mountains, and requires a lengthy climb up a few hundred steps. The road leading to the temple is one of the windiest (snakiest?) I've ever encountered. I can't imagine walking or cycling it. On the way up the staircase to the temple, there was a nice old elephant gladly taking food donations from willing tourists. It was fun to watch the elegant beast vacuum up the offerings with it's trunk and stuff it into it's mouth.

Once in the temple itself, I was a little disappointed. The temple is famous for being totally covered in gold. But now, it is also covered in gold scaffolding, as it is undergoing some maintenance. Bad timing, unfortunately. Though, I still managed to get some great photos of other areas of the temple. It was supremely crowded today, so there are pretty well no photos without people in them, but I am still satisfied.

Later in the day, I visited the local shopping meccas: Nimmanhaemin Road, and the Night Market. Neither were worth writing home about (oh, too late!). But they are worth seeing, just to say I did. I have seen WAY too many Hill Tribe women peddling wooden frogs. These are carved frogs with ridges on the back, that you are to rub with another piece of wood, in a vain attempt to make it sound like a frog. I've heard frogs before (and eaten them too, yum), and they certainly don't sound like wood being rubbed against wood. Who buys this stuff?

Traffic

2009-01-16T15:57:00.003+07:00

Brrrr……it’s cold in Thailand. Recent news reports say that it’s the coldest it’s been in Bangkok for at least a decade. Overnight lows are in the low teens, and daytime highs area about +22 or so. I know, I know….it’s much colder where you are. But, I paid good money for this, and I think I should expect some heat, right? I want to sweat out all the toxins I’ve been putting in to my liver.

I’ve had a pretty lazy few days in Bangkok, again. Something about this city makes me just want to do very little. I wonder if it would be that way if I lived here? Perhaps it is the environmental influences. Most people in Thailand seem to work at a slower pace than, say, Hong Kong. It’s not a bad thing, by any means. But it is a noticeable difference in speed and energy.

I’ve been giving a lot of thought to the traffic here. Well, not just here in Thailand, but in Asia in general. I’ve made a few references to how I was a bit frightened about the traffic, before. But the more I see and experience it, the better it seems to me. Back in Canada, it’s common to hear people complain (and joke/tease) about bad Asian drivers. But, I am here to defend them now. I think that drivers that learned to drive here in Asia are taught a much different style of driving. Drivers here have a much more fluid style of driving, than in Canada. There is no aggression. Rules of the road are casually observed, not rigidly. Lane dividers? Who needs those?

Once someone is taught to drive on the streets of any Asian country, and then placed on the roads in Canada, its like a fish out of water. The rules are much more strict, there is a lot of road rage, and you see a lot of accidents. I contend that it’s the Asian style of driving that works best. People here are much more relaxed about the rules, and they are far more courteous about sharing the road. Sure, it’s slower, but it works a lot better. The fish analogy is actually pretty accurate. You see thousands of fish occupying the same small space, but you never see them crash into each other.

I have far more respect for Asian drivers now, than I ever have before. I have been a passenger in many a taxi here in Asia, and I've always felt safe.

I am now in Chiang Mai. I will be here until next Tuesday. This is my first time in Northern Thailand. I've heard nothing but good things about this city. I am looking forward to getting some great photos.

Joy Juice and Fish Nibbling

2009-01-12T18:59:00.004+07:00

I've had a nice time here in Kuala Lumpur, again. This city has always been good to me. It's not the most beautiful, or clean, or interesting. But, it's still enjoyable. The last few days have been spent being pretty lazy, and hanging out with the people I know here. All the guys I know in KL are genuinely nice and friendly, and make me want to return again and again. Now, if only I could get a decent pork meal...

Today, I had two experiences that require mentioning:

1) I was thirsty, and stopped in a local store and picked up a can of pop. I chose a brand called 'Kickapoo Joy Juice', simply because of the name. I mean, who wouldn't chose that brand? It was a sweet, carbonated citrus soda pop, and it did the job to quench my thirst.

2) I had my feet nibbled by fish. I am not kidding. It's a normal thing here in Malaysia, at a few spas. Basically, you roll up your pants to the knees, and stick your feet into a pool of warm water. Then a few hundred little fish start nibbling your feet, toes and legs. They are biting away the dead skin on your feet, leaving you with baby-soft skin. My feet are not usually that soft. But they are now.

I am not too sure what the benefit is to the fish - dead skin doesn't sound too appetizing to me. But, they sure took to my feet like they've not eaten in weeks. At first, it was quick ticklish, but after about 10 minutes you get used to it and it feels pretty cool. The spa also offers a "whole body experience", but since this is my first time, I thought I better stick to the feet. I wonder if you're supposed to wear a swimsuit, when you do that one? Check it out: Kenko Fish Spa

Tomorrow, I head back to Bangkok. I am wiggling my way back up to Hong Kong, in time for Chinese New Years. I will be in Bangkok for a few days, then I go to Chiang Mai for a while. I will spend a short time in Manila (and maybe Boracay) before I get back in to HKG. I've never been in Asia during CNY before, and I am really looking forward to it.

Farewell, Land of Oz

2009-01-09T06:28:00.005+07:00

I have left Australia now, and I am on my way back 'up north' in an effort to reach Hong Kong in time for Chinese New Years celebrations.

I've already said it, but I will say it again: I quite like Australia. I am not sure if I would want to live here, but if I did, it would be quite comfortable. There is the obvious advantages, like everyone speaks English (even if it doesn't sound like English), there are Starbucks everywhere, I can get pork at every meal, the climate is nice most of the year, and I can get clothes in my size easily. But maybe because it is too comfortable, I would not be happy. After all, I am trying to find a new place that provides me with significant challenges. Not one that is so easy to adapt to.

So, some final observations from my keen eye and weird way of looking at things ....

- The girls dress quite hoochie in Australia. I'm talking seriously short skirts and boobs up and out. I am no prude, as you know, but I was shocked by a lot of what I've seen.
- The boys don't dress that way, sadly.
- Australians look a lot like Americans and British, body shape wise. Most straight men look slovenly and don't take care of themselves.
- Melbourne has the 'second city' attitude. It doesn't try to be bigger or better than the First City. It just tries to make it a truly livable city with lots to enjoy in arts, sports and culture. For more examples of this, think of Montreal vs. Toronto, Osaka vs. Tokyo, Shanghai vs. Beijing.
- There are just as many Thai restaurants in Australia, as there are in Thailand.
- No matter where you go in the world, including Australia, you will see a Peruvian pan flute band busking for cash in the tourist areas.

On my way out of Melbourne, I was unfortunate enough to encounter the most surly of check-in counter staff at the airport. I don't know why I was chosen to to be the lucky one to suffer her wrath, but she made me think twice about ever returning to Australia. I swear I did nothing to incite her vitriol. I just happened to be at the wrong place in line.

It started with her asking me to prove I had a ticket onwards from my next destination. I explained that I have an e-ticket, but she told me that I must have a paper ticket in order to board this portion of the flight. She sent me away, to print out my next flight ticket, even though it was with the same airline. I am sure she could simply look it up with the reference number, but she wouldn't. When I returned with a paper copy, she told me that my carry-on luggage needs to be weighed. She said that the limit for cabin luggage is 7 kg, and since mine was 11 kg, I would have to get a second bag, and split it into 2, with neither weighing over 7 kg. Since it was all my camera gear, it was pretty difficult. Off I went again, and purchased a small cheap carry bag to stuff what I could into it. Her reasoning was that if I have a heavy bag in the overhead bins, I would drop it on some baby's head when I pulled it out. Promising her that I would be careful, was not sufficient.

I returned to her counter again, this time with 2 carry on bags. She weighs my luggage. I know it is overweight, since it always is. Malaysia Airlines has a really strict limit of only 20 kg per person. My luggage, with all my clothes, and computer stuff, etc, weighs in at 30 kg. She tells me that the excess charge is $24 per kg. I was shocked! $240 for excess luggage! I told her that I've never paid so much before. She replies "Yer in Australia now. You should know better." Off I go again, to pay this ransom to the sales desk. Last time I flew on Malaysia Airlines, I paid $15 ringit per kilo. That's roughly $6 UAD. She didn't care.

When I was finally checked in, I was booked into a seat that was 4th in a row of 5 in the middle, despite booking an aisle seat online. Clearly, she was not doing me any favours. Thankfully, the plane was only about 70% full, and I switched to another row by myself. That woman was a discredit to Malaysian Airlines, and is enough reason to not fly with them again. Or visit Australia again.

I was surprised to see my luggage pop out on the conveyor belt in Kuala Lumpur.

*Update*
Malaysia Airlines redeemed themselves when I flew from KL to Bangkok yesterday. When I checked in for the flight, the girl at the desk told me that I should carry one of my bags on to the flight, rather than check it. I was surprised, and she told me that I was allowed 2 carry on bags, if one of them is a camera bag. Even when I showed her my camera bag, she said it was OK. It is not considered luggage to them. She said that this way, I would avoid the excess luggage fees. What a sweetheart.

Melbourne, City of Arts

2009-01-07T15:20:00.006+07:00

The last few days, I've been in Melbourne. I have to say, after a few days of looking around the city, I prefer this place much more than Sydney. If I were to live in Australia, I'd choose this place easily.

Melbourne clearly has the city planning process down pat. The transit system (lots of trains and trams) is extensive. The city embraces it's old Victorian era buildings and restores them into modern spaces. The Yarra river runs through the city to the ocean, and is one of the main focal points for restaurants and condos. There are countless galleries, stadiums and arts venues in this sports and culture-crazy city. Coincidentally, while I am here, there is a showing at the National Gallery of one of my favourite photographers: Andreas Gursky. Gursky has the honour of having sold the most expensive photograph ever (at $3.3M USD).

Yesterday, I met with a photographer I've known online for several years. He and I have corresponded a few times, so it was nice to meet with him in person. Marcus Mok, is an accomplished photographer, with several shows and many publications. I admire his work, and it was a great meeting over the last few days. He gave me a lot of good insight into the realities of working as a photographer in Australia, and in his previous home of Singapore. Marcus shoots much of the same stuff I do, but makes a decent living doing it. He was generous with his time, and showed me around the city.

Today, I met with another couple of photographers that Marcus knows from Sydney. One was Garrie Maguire. We talked at great length about the process of self-publishing your own book. This is the current trend known as "Print on Demand", where you can advertise your book online and when people order a copy it is printed and shipped overnight. It avoids the whole process of printing and warehousing thousands of copies of a book that may or may not sell. With Print on Demand, you have no cash outlay upfront, but you can make a higher profit if your book is popular. It was a very enlightening conversation.

I will spend tomorrow, my last day in Melbourne, wandering the city and taking in as much as I can. I dunno when or if I will return, so I need to absorb the Ozzie culture all in one day. That means I need to drink many kinds of Australian wines. I need to eat some kangaroo or emu. I need to see if the water really does flush down the opposite way in the toilets. Should be a busy day.

BTW, thanks to all of you that sent along Birthday wishes to me. It was a nice treat to spend my Birthday down under. Nice, sunny and hot. Just the way I like it.

Out with the old, in with the new

2009-01-04T18:15:00.002+07:00

It’s now the 4th of January, in 2009. I am on a train heading south to Melbourne. The last time I wrote, it was just about to be the last day of 2008. I guess I am slowing down with my posts. I will try to pick up the pace a bit more, loyal readers.

On the last day of ’08, I went on a trek to the Blue Mountains – so called because of the blue hue that is seen from a distance. I am told that it’s bluer than most vistas, because of the large amount of eucalyptus trees on the mountains, and they give off blue reflections. Coming from Canada, I have to say that they didn’t seem too mountain-like. More like small rocky hills. Yes, they were several thousand feet about sea level, but they were quite low compared to anything else I’ve experienced.

The main draw for me on this trip was the chance to see Koalas and Kangaroos. Sure, I’ve seen them in zoos, but this time I got to touch them, pet them. It was encouraged, even. It was quite touristy, though. The animals were in a glorified petting zoo for adults. There were dozens of Koalas in pens that you could reach out and touch. But most of them were sleeping in the trees far away from the pen walls. Koalas sleep about 18 hours per day, partly because their entire diet consists of eucalyptus leaves, and the toxins in the leaves make them kinda dopey. One of the handlers brought a 2 year-old female Koala around so that we could get up close. Very cute creatures, and the fur was oh-so-soft. I was not disappointed, despite the touristy side of it.

The Kangaroos, Wallabies and Wallaroos were roaming about the park freely. I guess they could hop over any fence that they try to pen them in with anyways. Several of the Roos had young Joeys in their pouches, which was cool to see. Interestingly, the Wallaroos are all white, like an albino Kangaroo. I guess it’s something in the mixing of the genes. The ‘petting zoo’ had plenty of other interesting creatures that are unique to Australia, like Echidnas, Dingoes, Flying Foxes, Emus, etc. I looked for a Platypus, but it was not visible.

The rest of the tour that day was spent driving to and from the Mountains. We stopped several times for various vistas and areas of historical significance. A couple of cable cars and ‘the world’s steepest railway’ later, we started to head back to Sydney. We stopped off one last time, cracked a bottle of Champagne, and watched as wild Kangaroos hopped on by. I got quite close this time to get some decent shots.

Later that day, it was New Years Eve. It’s not often that I spend NYE in a warm climate. I was in Hong Kong a few years back, but generally I spend it on a cold rainy night in Vancouver. So it was a treat to be wearing a t-shirt and enjoying +30 weather. The big event in Sydney on NYE is the fireworks. It’s akin to the ones that Vancouver displays every summer. But in Sydney, the iconic Harbour Bridge is the centre point of the display. It’s become world famous as the start of the New Years festivals (although New Zealand is really first). I didn’t bother going to the event, since I think of fireworks as a bit ho-hum. I suppose I should have gone, but people spend all day jostling for a good position with a view of the bridge, and I am just not that kind of person.

I did go out on NYE, though. I went to the famous Oxford Street, where many of the pubs and dance clubs are. The road was littered with debris from the earlier fireworks revelers, and by 1 AM there were lots of young kids learning what their alcohol tolerance is, the hard way. Police presence was clear, and it was pretty calm. Most bars in Sydney close at 5 AM or later. And most have a rule that requires them to lock out new patrons at 2 AM. If you’re in by then, you can stay until 5. But no new people can come in. And all the bars don’t serve alcohol for 10 minutes, every hour, in a strange attempt to reduce the amount of drinking. Although, now that I’ve experienced it, the stereotype of the drunken Australian seems somewhat accurate. I’ve seen my share.

Overall, I quite like Sydney. It has its charms, and I understand why people like to come here. There is enough to do in the city and surrounding areas to keep most people busy for a week or two. I went to a few museums, lots of parks, the Opera House, a theme park, a few harbours…I was never bored. The Australians are a proud and patriotic people. They love to show off their country.

As mentioned, I am on a train as I write this. I decided to take a train to Melbourne, rather than my usual last-minute flight. I thought it would be a good way to see more of the country. Although, after the firs 6 hours on this train, the country is beginning to look a bit repetitive. Hues of yellow and brown, with some more brown and yellow thrown in. Rolling hills, and the occasional tree from a distance, houses with metal roofs, and lots of cattle and sheep. Maybe the next 6 hours will be tougher. I am in a First Class coach. But I fail to identify anything about it that is First Class. No pillows, no blankets, no TV’s, Internet. Nothing. The First Class cars are the two most forward coaches, so maybe they should just call them “First Coaches”, not “First Class Coaches”.

I am looking forward to Melbourne. I am told it is ‘the centre of culture and the arts’ in Australia. Many people tell me that it is THE place to see in Australia. It will be my last stop in the country, after which I will head back north to SE Asia, winding my way back up to Hong Kong by the end of the month, and then into China.

G'Day, Mate. How You Going?

2008-12-30T19:57:00.003+07:00

I've been in Sydney Australia for a few days now. I have to say, I quite like it. Of course, it's quite a lot different from the places I've been visiting in Asia. Sydney is a very exciting, clean, happening city. I thought that I would be reminded of Vancouver, but it turns out that I it is more reminiscent of Seattle. This place is bigger. Much Bigger.

The Australians are a very unique people. They have their own distinct version of English. You can really see the English influence here, though. The housing looks very much like suburban England. They drive on the left (though, that is all over Asia). They have a very strong Pub culture. And they LOOK British. The men are either Soccer Hooligan types, or they are Bondi Beach Lifeguard types. Anything in between is a tourist.

I've spent the last few days wandering the city. Like most World Cities, it is one mall after after another after another. But, the charm of Sydney is the harbours. There are lots of them. The Sydney Opera House is spectacular, a marvel of architecture. I have not gotten close to it, or in it, but I plan to. The Sydney Harbour Bridge (very clever name, that) is the second most popular tourist attraction. They offer tours that allow you to walk to the top, then back down. But since you have to wear embarrassing outfits that make you look like a prisoner, I decided not to go. Plus, they give a breathalizer test before you start. I am sure I'd fail that.

Today, I went to Bondi Beach. It's one of the more famous beaches here, complete with the iconic Australian Lifeguards in skimpy Speedos. I looked for them, but sadly I didn't see them. It was seriously crowded, but it is summer so that's to be expected.

I've been learning the Ozzie slang, since it's pretty impossible to avoid it. I've often used the phrase "G'Day, Mate", but that's not the worst. I've found that I am following the local vernacular much more easily than I expected. Here is a list of terms I am encountering locally:

Arvo = Afternoon
Bottle Shop = Liquor store
Bushman's Hanky = hold one nostril closed, and blow out the other. (eww)
Crack a Fat = Get an erection
Dinkum, or Fair Dinkum = true, real
Grundies = underwear
Hotel = just a pub
Old Fella = penis
Slab = carton of beer
Sunnies = sunglasses
Thong = flipflops
Tinny = can of beer
White pointers = topless female sunbathers
Woggies = a person of Mediterranean origin.

Tomorrow, I am heading to the Blue Mountains. It's about 2 hours out of Sydney, and I will get to see Koalas and Kangaroos. Should be a fun way to spend the end of 2008. See you next year!

Bali, Hi.

2008-12-25T21:56:00.005+07:00

Bali is lovely. It's always been. I know there is a lot of bad things in the press lately about the dangers here, but to me it's still a wonderful place to be. This is my third time here, and I would not hesitate to return. The weather has not been perfect, but by that I mean there's been a few clouds. It's a lot better than what North America is going through, that's for sure.

I am staying in a small villa called "Serene Villa Lotus", and serene it is. This is a small oasis amidst the bustling village of Seminyak. Like many villas, it's set quite far back from the road, with high walls and hedges. I don't really see or hear any outside traffic, except when taxi drops in and honks. The private villa that I am in is a small 2 person version, in a larger complex that contains villas that would hold 8 people comfortably. I have my own personal Butler that looks after me at the ring of a phone, 24/7. I order breakfast the night before, and he arrives at the requested time to cook it for me, then leaves. I've had dreams of this, only I assumed the houseboy would be younger. =)

One of the things that strikes me most about Bali, is how the outside view of Bali is different from the inside view. What I mean is that if you only see the streets of Seminyak, and not the Villa or shop interiors, you will not see the real Bali. Bali is widely known for what is cleverly called "Bali Style", which is a clean, simple design concept with little clutter, solid colours and a mix of old Indonesian relics with modern fixtures. But the streets are total chaos. Traffic is snarled all the time, the roads are just slightly better than horrible, and being a pedestrian is dangerous. It's a wonder people manage to stay so calm and serene.

Speaking of calm...what is it with the quality of wait staff in most of Asia? I guess I am pretty spoiled with the restaurant services in Vancouver that I take anything less than equal to be inferior. I know, I know. I should not do the comparison and complain thing, since I am emigrating to Asia somewhere. But the restaurant staff here are really inept. Bali is quite bad. It's impossible to get the attention of a waiter, in most cases. Once, in Sabah, I was eating a meal with Gil, and they brought his food, and after about 15 minutes of waiting for mine (and he finished his), the waitress said "Oh, did you want something too?". It's almost like you are an intrusion into their personal time.

I head to Sydney, Australia tomorrow. I have been to Sydney before, but that was in Nova Scotia. So this one might be a little different. I've never been to Australia before, but I have to say, I am really looking forward to it. It's never really attracted me in the past, but who knows? Maybe I will be pleasantly surprised and enjoy it very much. Of course, it is summer in Australia now, so that will add to it's splendour. I will be in Sydney for 8 days, then I may hop over to Melbourne, and then up to New Zealand for a weekend. After that, who knows?

The pic attached is of a guy here named Reza. He has a classic Indonesian look in his face, with strong features and soft eyes with big lashes. He was easy to photograph, and has a quiet demeanor that is typical of the Balinese people.

2008-12-23T14:04:00.003+07:00

I've spent the last 5 days in Singapore. Has it been that long since I've written? I guess I am getting pretty lazy. Doing nothing all the time can be quite tiring.

I've heard that it's been snowing a lot in Vancouver. I can honestly say that I don't miss that. I like snow, but not in the city. It's been quite nice in Singapore. The last time I was here (2 years ago), it rained every freakin day. This time, it's been sunny and hot. It's a nice change.

Singapore is a strange city. It's strange because it's really quite unlike other cities in Asia. It almost feels un-Asian. It's so clean, and the people are so polite (well, a bit aggressive). The streets are wide, traffic is normal, and consumerism is rampant. Compared to other cities in Asia, like Hong Kong or Bangkok, this place is kinda boring. I rather like the grittiness of Bangkok, and the go-go-go attitude of Hong Kong. I think it'd be tough to live here. Singapore tries to hard to be a major world city, and it seems unimpressive.

My impression of Singapore is simple. People shop and eat. They eat 5 meals per day: breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner and supper. And the topics of conversation at every meal are what and where they will have their next meal, and how good/bad this meal is compared to the last one. And it's one mall after another after another. I know it's Christmas time, and the malls are naturally busy. But here, it's all year. And I think there are as many restaurants as there are people in Singapore.

I did some touristy things, when I was here. I went to the National Orchid Garden, which I've been to before. Many orchids and plants that you just won't see anywhere else. Plus, I went to see the Singapore Flyer, which is a giant ferris wheel a la London. It was a great way to see the city (which is permanently under construction). I should just say, to all my friends from Singapore...that it's the people here that make it worthwhile. If it weren't for the really nice guys I know here, I wouldn't visit.

I am at the Changi Airport in Singapore now, waiting for my flight to Bali. I will be spending 3 days in Bali, over Christmas, then I will head south to Sydney Australia. I've been to Bali a few times already, and I quite enjoyed it. I can't think of a better way to spend Christmas, than on a beach in Bali. OK, one better way would be to have all my friends there with me. =)

I am going to Australia for the first time, after Christmas. I will spend New Years there. Bali is about as close as you can get to Australia, from Asia, so it seems like a logical choice as a follow up destination. I have never really thought about going there before. It's never really attracted me. But...I am really looking forward to it, now that I am booked to go.

I hope all my friends that are reading this will have a wonderful Christmas. I will be thinking of you, and missing you. Ho, Ho, Ho.

OK in KK

2008-12-19T10:03:00.003+07:00

The last few days in Sabah, East Malaysia, were really nice. Well, mostly nice. There was a LOT of rain, when I was in Sandakan, but otherwise it was beautiful. Sabah is a special place, with lots to see.

The entire purpose of going to Sandakan, was to go see the Orang Utans in the Sepilok Sanctuary. The day I had set aside to do this, was VERY rainy. When we got to the sanctuary, it was raining so hard, that it was impossible to stay dry. It was one of those tropical rain storms that seem so violent, and there is no shelter when you're caught in it. The sanctuary feeds the apes twice per day, and that is the time you can easily spot the animals. They all come to the feeding platform, to get their daily ration of bananas and oranges. When the 10 am feeding was taking place, the rain let up for a short time, thankfully.

The apes were wonderful to watch. Although, it was so crowded with tourist taking photos, it felt like a zoo. Oh well, it was still fun. Orang Utans are special creatures. I learned that the name Orang Utan means 'people of the forest' (or something like that). All along, I thought it had something to do with them having orange hair. I took lots of photos, but they were so far away, it was challenging to get anything good.

After Sandakan, I flew to Kota Kinabalu. KK, as it's known, is a pretty nice place. I stayed at a beautiful resort on the harbour front. It was certainly the nicest place I've stayed in Malaysia. It was a large complex with thousands of suites and many pools, a beach, golf course, lots of restaurants, etc. Really, there was very little reason to leave the place. The pool was pretty quite pleasant to lounge around.

Unbeknown to me, there was a huge Badminton tournament taking place in KK when I was there. And many of the star players were staying at the same resort. There was quite a lot of fuss and attention paid to them. I don't know much about badminton, but in Malaysia it is the ruling sport. Gil was quite excited to see many of the players, and he knew them all by name. He knew their standing, their history, everything. All his favourite players where there. In the restaurant, the players didn't have a moments peace, because everyone wanted to have their photos taken with them. They were sports celebrities. But not to me.

Yesterday, Gil and I attended the first round of play for this tournament. It was fun to watch, even if I don't know the game. Of course, it looks pretty simple: hit the bird, get it over the net, in the court. Though we could not stay for all 4 days of the tournament, we did get to see some of his favourite players compete.

I am in Singapore now, back at the Scarlet hotel. I've stayed here many times, because I cannot find a nicer hotel in the area. I will be meeting up with my friend Luke today. Luke and I have known each other for many years now, and keep meeting in Asia or North America, as often as we can. I am not too sure how long I will stay here in Singapore (yah, I know...I never plan more than a week in advance). But Christmas is just around the corner, and I have to decide where I will be for it. I am pretty sure Bali and Jakarta are next on the list. Just not sure when.

Fantasy Island

2008-12-15T20:47:00.006+07:00

I spent the last few days on a beautiful island called Mataking, with my friend Gil. This island is about 45 minutes by speedboat from the mainland. It is a small island with one resort on it. I knew it was going to be good, when on the boat ride out, we passed Bum Bum Island. I am not kidding.

The resort was pretty empty, with only about 4 chalets being occupied from what I could see. The primary purpose of the resort is for scuba diving (I know I should learn some time), and most of the guests there were there for that purpose. But it's a nice place to relax and do nothing. It's very casual in the resort. Shoes are not allowed in any of the buildings, so you have to remove then whenever you arrive at the restaurant or reception. The food was included, and was pretty decent.

One of the things that Mataking Island is famous for, is that there is a smaller island that you can walk to, during low tide. They call it the Moses Walk. We did that on the day we arrived, and had to wade through thigh-high water on the return, as the tide was coming in quickly.

I wanted to snorkel while I was there, so we signed up for some lessons and a guided tour of the local reefs. After a brief introductory lesson we started off to explore. It was not long before we snorkeled into a school of jellyfish. They were beautiful to look at, but their beauty was far outweighed by their sting. I think I got 6 stings. Gil got 5, and the guide got several too. Back to the dive centre for some antiseptic, then back in the water. This time, we avoided the jellyfish, and found some amazing reefs and fish. The guide pointed out many beautiful sea creatures, including a barracuda.

One night, we went on a Jungle Trek, in search of turtles and coconut crabs. The crabs are large and climb palm trees in search of the coconut. We came across one, but it was a baby, and not the large adult one we sought out. And, no turtles to be found, either.

This morning, we left the island, and headed to Sandakan. Sandakan is the 2nd largest city in Eastern Malaysia, on the island of Borneo. It's quite developed, compared to Tawau. The trip to Sandakan was challenging, at best. There was no choice of transportation other than bus or private car. Getting the bus was difficult, but we finally got it. It was a horrible ride on a stinky non-air conditioned bus for 6 hours. The bus stopped many times to pick up people from the side of the road, and we pulled over to replace a flat tired. It was not a fun trip.

Tomorrow, we will be visiting Sepilok, where there is a sanctuary for Orang Utan apes. I am looking forward to seeing them. Orang Utans were my father's favourite primates, so I am happy to go see them in his honour. Later tomorrow, I will fly on to Kota Kinabalu, the largest city on the island.

Tawau, East Malaysia, Borneo

2008-12-11T21:52:00.004+07:00

It's been raining a lot since I got to Tawau. The locals tell me "You should have been here yesterday. It was beautiful!". There is not a lot to this little town. There are a few hotels, some small shops and some banks. Other than that, it's pretty sleepy.

When I arrived, I found a small hotel and checked in. Then I quickly checked out. I should know better by now, to preview the room before I sign the forms. It was pretty bad. I never really can figure out the terms that hotels use to describe their rooms. You'd think a 'Superior King" would have some qualities about it that make superior in some way. This room had no redeeming qualities. I had a small disagreement with the Reception desk about whether or not I should pay for a night, if I was not going to stay. I resolved that today. They saw my way, eventually.

The hotel I am staying in now, the Marco Polo, seems to be lacking in guests. It's nice, but pretty empty. The lobby lounge has a Piano Player that plays for no one. The restaurant was empty when I was in it last night. I had my choice of rooms. There is no view to speak of, so it was a pretty easy decision.

On Saturday, I will be heading to Mataking Island. It is about 45 minutes by boat from the mainland. It has only one resort on the island, but it looks idyllic. Azure blue seas, white sandy beaches, turtles, coconut crabs, snorkeling. Sounds nice. I hope the weather report is true, and it clears up on Saturday.

Sunny Day in KL

2008-12-09T21:18:00.005+07:00

The rain finally stopped in Kuala Lumpur today. Not all day, but for most of it. I was out in the heat and humidity for a good portion of the day. It was great to have at least one nice day in KL before I leave for Borneo.

I spent the day with a fellow photographer I know here: Terrence. Terrence has skills in Photo Shop that I will never have. I wanted to see the 'photographers view' of KL, and he was my guide. KL is not at big as I thought it was. I visited Chinatown, and a few other places I can't remember the names of. My ability to read and remember Malay is pretty weak.

I quite like Kuala Lumpur. It doesn't have the go-go-go feel like Hong Kong, or the fun/excitement of Bangkok, but it has a distinct flavour that is all it's own. All the people I've met have been quite nice and polite. The malls are world-class, and there are plenty of Starbucks. And you can't beat Malaysian food. I learned today that you CAN get pork here, just not in all areas. When I was in Chinatown, pork was in every restaurant shop window. That made me feel a lot better. =)

Tomorrow, I fly to Tawau. It is a small city in Sabah, Malaysia on the island of Borneo (the 3 largest island in the world). I am looking forward to a wide variety of experiences. There are great beaches, and huge forests that are home to hundreds of bird species, Orangutans, and the worlds largest flower. Should be fun. After Sabah, I will head to either Singapore or Jakarta. I need to decide soon. Christmas and New Years is coming up, so I should decide where to spend them.

Where are the Kuala bears?

2008-12-08T00:53:00.004+07:00

I am back in Kuala Lumpur now. I can tell I am getting closer to the Equator, as the humidity has spiked, and the vegetation is thick. Even the grass is more like moss.

I had my first experience with the budget airline "Air Asia", when I flew from Phuket to Kuala Lumpur. It was a new experience for me. Everything about it was budget. When I bought the ticket, they charged for all the items that would normally be considered as part of a regular ticket price. You want to check luggage? There is a fee for that (even for one bag). Want seat selection? That's extra. What anything like water or coffee? That's not free, either. And in fact, when it came time to serve snacks to my row, they ran out of everything but rice. And I was in row 4.

When I was in line for check-in, which was agonizingly slow, I was informed that my luggage was 7kg over the impossible 15kg limit. I was told by the grinning check-in girl that my penalty would be about equal to the cost of my flight. I asked if I could buy a ticket for my luggage, as it would be cheaper. She didn't get it, and said the flight was full. I will get to experience the joy that is Air Asia again, as I fly with them to my next destination: Sabah. Sabah in in East Malaysia on the island of Borneo.

KL is a nice place. I quite like it here. The people are quite nice, and the city is very modern. This seems to be a 'shopping city' like Hong Kong or Singapore. So many malls, always crowded. I am not sure if I could live here, though. I think I would miss pork too much. This morning, I had chicken sausage and turkey bacon with my breakfast. Pork is my main meat, you know. Mmm....pork.

I was hoping to spend more time outdoors shooting photos of KL, since I didn't really get to shoot much on my last visit. But it's been raining a lot here, and today it's quite heavy. The weather report is not too promising. It might be a mall day.

The King and I

2008-12-05T20:57:00.005+07:00

Today is the King of Thailand's 81st birthday, and I've learned a lot about him. The Thai people as a whole, are a very loyal and patriotic bunch. They revere their King as a deity. It's really something to see. Coming from Canada, I am not really used to seeing such widespread devotion to a ruler. Though, in actual fact, the King has very little political power. He wields significant influence, though. His Subjects hang on his every word.

Considering the massive political issues here in Thailand, the King's annual birthday speech was widely anticipated as a panacea to the crisis that is taking place now. The King, Bhumibol Adulyadej, looked very frail recently. He missed his annual speech, and this has caused great concern in a country that desperately needs a soothing voice. Instead, a short statement was given by his son, the Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn. The Prince, who would normally be a natural ascendant to the thrown, is not very popular. He's not considered to be the Statesman and Humanitarian that his Father is. The Crown Prince has married 3 times and fathered 7 children. The King has the power to choose his successor, and it is widely assumed be may pass over his first Son, and hand the crown to his Daughter, Princess Chakri Sirindhorn. Talks of succession are pretty big now.

I have been seeing a lot of tributes to the King in the last week. Interestingly, the King was born in Cambridge, Massachusetts. I've learned that he is an accomplished Jazz music composer, painter and photographer. I've seen and heard samples of his arts, and I am impressed. I am used to seeing Thai people wear yellow shirts every Monday (Yellow is the King's colour). And the King's portrait is on pretty much every business and website in Thailand. In movie theatres, patrons stand at attention before the movie begins, to watch a patriotic video of the King (that looks like it was shot in the 50's). Every morning, loudspeakers blare out the National Anthem, and people stand up and sing. This week though, devotion to the King has reached a fevered pitch, with large gatherings to celebrate his reign. Here in Phuket, the city has really shut down in his honour. Only restaurants and hungry souvenir shops on Beach road are open.

All the head shots of the King look like they were shot in the 60's. I've seen recent photos of the King, and he looks like he could pass any day now. He looks like my father did shortly before he died. If/when the King dies, it will throw this fragile nation into further chaos when they need it the least. If I have to guess, I think he'll pass within the year.

As for Thailand, I am saddened by all the turmoil that has taken place recently. I consider Thailand as one of my favourite countries in the world. The people are genuinely nice, the food is amazing, the city and beaches are fabulous, etc. I've assumed for a long time that I would retire in Thailand. It means that much to me. But, it's sad to see how it suffers now. The tourism industry will be decimated because of the recent occupation of the airports. Millions of people in the tourism industry will lose their jobs, as visitation to the Kingdom will drop by 60% by next year. It's a tough time to be Thai. But on the plus side, it's a great time to visit Thailand and buy property here. Hmmm.....

A day at the beach

2008-12-04T12:26:00.007+07:00

There is not a lot to do in Phuket, other than hang out at the beach. Not that I am complaining, or anything. It's a lovely beach, and the weather couldn't be better. It's sunny every day, and it's not too hot (only about +30 or so).

Of course, you see all manner of humanity at the beach in Phuket. Since this is Thailand, there are plenty of Europeans here. It's mostly Germans, Belgians and Dutch from what I could discern. I suspect every country in the Union is represented here, but those are the ones that I keep meeting. Indeed, the hotel I am staying in is owned by Belgians and Dutch. And I seem to be the only one staying here that isn't one of those nationalities.

The other subset of humanity represented at the beach are the local merchants. The beaches in Patong are basically an extension of the markets across the road. Pretty much everything that you can buy on the way to or from the beach, will be paraded by you as you sit in the lounge chair under the palapa. And you can't walk 10 feet along the beach without being asked if you want a massage. Many of you know that I have a tattoo on my arm, with Thai letters on it. It's my last name, in Thai (pronounced "Asa win). So, if I am wearing a sleeveless shirt and my tattoo is visible, I am being called by every vendor within viewing distance. "Hey, Asawin!! T-shirt?" "Want a massage, Asawin? It's happy hour, so happy ending!" "Nice to meet you, Asawin! Come buy a suit! Special price, just for you!". For the first time, I regret getting a Thai tattoo.

I've seen my share of boobs and bare asses these days, too. Pretty much every European woman, regardless of age, parades around topless on the beach. They seem proud of their leathery skin and wrinkles. Good for them. But I can do without seeing the old men in thongs. No one should be subjected to that. You know how old men (senior citizen - old) hike up their pants near their armpits? Well, I saw a man who must be in his 60's, with an oversized thong that was pulled up quite high. It didn't quite reach the armpits, but you could see that was his goal. And to make it complete, the old guy had a nice long ponytail too.

Luckily, there were enough cute guys on the beach to keep me from looking at the old guys in thongs.

In Poo Ket

2008-12-02T15:23:00.005+07:00

I've escaped the madness and mayhem that is Bangkok. I am comfortably settled in to Phuket now. (That's pronounced "Poo Ket" to all of you non-Thai-speakers, not the way it looks.) Phuket is considered Thailand's answer to Bali, and in many ways it is. The beaches here are world-class. And there are dozens of 5 star hotels near them. Of course this is still Thailand, so there are plenty of aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, t-shirt and DVD vendors and Massage hawkers begging you to stop and shop. But other than that, it's pretty nice here.
The hotel I am staying in is definitely the nicest I've EVER stayed in. Period. You can see from the photo, that this place is pretty swanky. And it's not that pricey too. That's one of the nice things about Thailand - that the properties are pretty inexpensive. This place is much bigger than my last condo in Vancouver, at 1000 sf. It's a shame I don't have someone to share it with.

I had to endure a 12 hour overnight bus trip to get here. I got the last seat on a "VIP Bus" to Phuket. It left at 8pm last night, and got in here early this morning. I am not too sure what constitutes it as "VIP", other than it had two Stewardesses dressed like KLM staff handing out little snacks and water bottles. The seats were uncomfortable, and I barely slept. Thailand really needs to figure out their political struggles, and get back to making it nice for tourists to come here again. I am not a bus traveler. I felt like I should be lugging a backpack instead of a suitcase.

I will hang out here until Saturday, when I will fly down to Kuala Lumpur. I hope that the Phuket airport doesn't close by then. I will use the time to relax, sit by the pool, and relax in the oversized apartment. Maybe I will set up a photo blog that you can see some of my other photos.

The last few days I was in Bangkok, I spent with a new friend Anthony. I met him through some of the other people I know there. Anthony is a Dentist in Bangkok. He is Thai, but grew up in Paris and London. We spent time doing 'normal things' like seeing a movie and bowling. It was like I actually lived in Bangkok.

Stranded

2008-11-30T10:21:00.004+07:00

As of Sunday morning, the Airports in Thailand are still shut down. I am not too sure how long the protests are going to last, but it looks like it might be a while. I have a flight scheduled for today, but it won't be taking off. I was scheduled to go to Chiang Mai, but it's not gonna happen. Usually, this sort of thing would upset me, because I get anxious about meeting flights on time. But this time, I am taking it all in stride. Since I don't have a strict schedule of places to be and times to be there, I will just find another another location and method to get there.

I read in the news this morning, that there was a bomb explosion at the Government House, with about 45 injured - many seriously. I am not anywhere near this area, and I am staying away purposely. So none of you need to worry about it. Right now, I am thinking I may take a train down to Phuket and stay there for a few days, and then head down to Kuala Lumpur from there. It's time to get out of Thailand, I think.

Yesterday, I went to my Personal Mecca. For those that know me well, it means I went to see the puppies at Chatuchak Market in Bangkok. There is a brisk trade in puppies at this market. I suspect it is where most people in Bangkok buy their dogs. Most of the popular breeds are represented, and the crowds are thick. I have to pull all my strength together to resist the temptation to buy all of them.

I saw a few lucky kids walk away with small dogs in little baskets. It was strange to see the transactions take place. Once, after the money changed hands, the seller tapped the heads of all the remaining dogs with the wad of bills. I guess it was to give them good luck in an early sell?

The market sells all manner of other animals too, of course. There were cats, birds, rabbits, Guinea pigs, squirrels, reptiles, fish, hedgehogs. And probably more. I noticed that the vendors selling fish were also eating fish for lunch. I dare not look at what the dog sellers were eating.

Today, I will spend some time trying to figure out how to get out of Thailand. Stay tuned!

Boney M is everywhere

2008-11-27T13:59:00.004+07:00

I am a bit surprised at how much Christmas is visible here in Asia. Here in Thailand, the population are about 90% Buddhist. The remaining balance are Christian and Muslim. But even in this largely Buddhist country, there are a lot of Christmas references. I was in a mall yesterday (yah, big surprise) and they were playing Boney M Christmas Music on the intercom. And there were Christmas trees everywhere, and garlands, Santa Clauses, etc. Since when is that Buddhist? I asked Ou about it, and he told me that the religious aspect of Christmas is not really observed - it's largely a commercial event. I guess that's pretty true back in the Old Country, too.

I know there is a lot of stuff in the news about the protests in Bangkok. I've been following it as best as I can. But it's not really affecting me. As far as I know, it's two opposing 'pro-government' and 'anti-government' groups that are battling it out. Both the Suvarnabhumi Airport (the International) and the Don Mueang Airport (domestic flights) are closed to incoming and outgoing flights. It's a major blow to tourism in this country. Even the Canadian Government is suggesting that citizens stay out of Thailand. I have a flight planned on Sunday to Chiang Mai on Thai Airways. Thai Airways is saying that the airports may reopen by the weekend. I may have to change my plans or go by train. Something for me to figure out. I will know more tomorrow.

Yesterday, I got a haircut. Ordinarily, this would not be a big news item. But this is a monumental event for me. It signals that I am living in Asia. I mean, who gets their haircut on a vacation? Choosing a place to get my haircut was part of the challenge. I was having coffee with some new friends Pomer and Allan, and they made a recommendation. It turned out to be a great choice. It was a very busy Salon near my apartment in Silom. And it was super cheap. I paid 250 baht (roughly $8.50) for a wash and cut. And I am quite happy with results (sorry Chau - I can't fly you in for a haircut).

One Week in Bangkok

2008-11-24T22:01:00.007+07:00

I am comfortably settled in Bangkok now. Those of you who know me well, will remember that Bangkok is one of my favourite cities in Asia - nay, the World. I can't quite pinpoint what it is about the place, that makes me think this way. I guess there are so many things that add up to make it such a great place. I am staying at the Bandara Suites hotel, in the Silom area. I am pretty sure the brochure said that Antonio would tuck me in at night. But I have not seen him. =p

I've decided to spend a week here. Originally, I thought I would only be here for 4 days or so. But I've extended my stay until Sunday, at which point I will head north to Chiang Mai. Since I have decided to stay, I thought I'd go to the Market today, to stock up on snacks and such. It's really something to see the differences between the Safeway back home, and the large supermarkets here. And it's not just the food choices. It's the way they approach food vending that is remarkable.

The market I went to was admittedly upscale, in a nice mall. But the experience is not duplicated in Canada, regardless. There was a very large amount of staff on duty, even for a Monday night. I saw so many people sweeping and mopping the floors eveywhere. In the coffee bean aisle, there was a person standing there to help you grind the beans, at the self-serve grinding machine. There were 2 staff at every register, and oodles of staff all around the store sampling products.

I wanted to buy a few bananas. But like all produce here, it is shrink-wrapped for my protection. So, I couldn't really sniff and squeeze the produce like I am used to. And I was forced to buy LOTS of bananas, since they are pre-wrapped in bundles. And diet pop? No such thing. I guess people here don't care about sugar content? I strolled down the potato chip aisle (yes, a whole aisle), and spied so many choices. Kimchi flavoured, German sausage flavoured, Japanese seaweed flavoured. Burger King and TGI Fridays have their own brands of chips. So many choices - it took forever to even see them all before I decided. All kinds of liquor for sale, displayed everywhere.

Yesterday, I spend some time with my friend Ou. Like most Thais, he has a nickname. And most of them are one syllable words - some of which resemble English words. Ou's proper Thai name is Theerawit. Ou is easier. Ou is a nice softspoken guy that is getting a science degree at one of the large Universities here. I photographed him last year, when we met previously, and I had the opportunity to photograph him again yesterday. I am quite happy with the work we achieved.

Can I get a Wat, what?

2008-11-22T08:25:00.004+07:00

I've spent the last few days in Siem Reap. It's quite a lovely little place. Sure, there are the incumbent bumpy dirt roads, street beggars and aggressive tuk-tuk drivers. But overall, I quite like it here. I will come back some day, and explore more of it.

Of course the whole reason to visit this part of Cambodia is for Angkor Wat. That's what I did yesterday. I sent an email to a well known photographer here, as he is known to provide excursions to the area. He was not available for a private guided tour, but he was generous enough to send along a well prepared list of places to go, what to look for, and when to be there to avoid most of the crowds. It was quite useful, and to him I will be forever grateful. Thanks John McDermott!

So, Angkor Wat is actually just one of the temples in the whole complex. I don't really know how large it all is, but some people buy a 7 day pass so they can explore it all. After having just one day to see it, I understand why people would want to take a week. Maybe I will do that next time. Overall, the Wat was pretty damn impressive. Of course, it was seriously crowded in some places, and getting a photo without people in it took a lot of patience. Sometimes I just gave up, thinking it would not take too much effort to remove one little person in Photoshop. I think I have a lot of Photoshop to do.

The guide that we had was fairly knowledgeable and provided a lot of contextual information while we toured the ruins. I was surprised that we were able to actually climb all over most of the temples. Considering how bad some of the temples are, you'd think they would not want any foot traffic climbing all over the place. In some places, the crowds were quite large. I can see that one day, they may stop tourist access in a last minute effort to slow down the decay.

I took quite a lot of photos, and it will take some time for me to go through them all. Despite the crowds, I think I got some great images. It was a full day, climbing around as many temples as we could fit in. We broke for lunch in a small restaurant near the Wat, called "Chez Sophea". It was a little piece of Paris, nestled amongst all the t-shirt and map sellers. The owner, Matthieu, was a great host, and the food was excellent. I think it was the best meal I had in Cambodia. My wine glass was taken care of too. "Just a few more drops for you..." he says, as he fills my glass a second time. Ordering an espresso also resulted in 2 cups.

One thing that bothers me about Cambodia, is the rampant sex trade. I've been offered girls pretty much by everyone. I've been asked if I want a girl by tour guides, tuk-tuk drivers, strangers on the street, and even the Hotel reception. Clearly, that part of the Cambodian economy is thriving.

Last night, as I was wandering the streets, I came across what is the only Gay bar in town. It's a nice little place called "Linga". Clever name for a Gay bar. This place was very modern, owned by a foreigner, and designed to NA standards. I met some nice people there, and the drinks were cheap. It is directly across from a small boutique hotel called "The One". It's called that, because it has only one suite. Pretty exclusive, I guess. Maybe next time.

Today, I head to Bangkok. I will be there until mid-week, and then head north to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Maybe into Laos after that. I look forward to being back in Bangkok, one of my favourite cities in the world. I know there is some violence and demonstrations going on now, but I don't think it will be in the tourist areas.

I'll upload some more photos, when I am settled in BKK.

Cambod-Ian

2008-11-19T19:45:00.006+07:00

I am feeling a bit sad, after my first full day in Cambodia. I'm not lonely or depressed or anything. It's just that I've spent a good portion of the day touring museums and monuments to the Cambodian genocide that occurred under the Pol Pot regime.

Once again, I arrived in a new country, not knowing a heckuva lot about the history. I knew a little bit about the Killing Fields, and some about the genocide. But I was not really prepared for what I saw today. I've never seen so many real skulls in all my life.

As you know, I was booked for a tour in Cambodia. Today was the Phnom Penh tour. Basically, it consisted of a variety of monuments, palaces, temples and other historical elements. First stop on the tour (and a lovely way to start the day) was the notorious Killing Fields. This was where the systematic genocide of millions of innocent Cambodians took place. Basically, if you were a Cambodian that resisted the Pol Pot regime, or were an intellectual, artist, wore glasses, read a book, etc, you were tortured and then executed. I saw thousands of photographs of people that were killed. Strangely enough, the KR photographed each and every person before they were killed. Sort of like an inventory list. Then after they died, they were photographed again. So many of the victims were young children and mothers. If you were a relative of someone that was about to be killed, you got rounded up and killed too. So sad.

After this portion of the tour, we were taken to the Royal Palace (much more my style). It reminded me of the Royal Palace in Bangkok. Very similar architecture, with somewhat less gold. Most of the places we went to today forbid photography, so it was not all that worthwhile for me. But, I still obtained a large amount of photos from the architecture of the places, even if I couldn't go inside for photos. The rest of the tour group (3 Americans) went in to ooh and ahh about the various and sundry Buddhas, while I spent time outside photographing the buildings. While I appreciate that other people like to marvel at the religious artifacts, I am only interested in the buildings and the history. You've seen one Buddha, you've seen them all.

Overall, I like Phnom Penh. It's a fairly cosmopolitan city. I am writing this in an upscale restaurant called K West. There is a very western feel to it. Great food, good wine list. Many of the restaurants here are quite modern. I was surprised and impressed. I think that Cambodia is ahead of Vietnam that way.

Tomorrow, I head to Siem Reap, the gateway city to Angkor Wat. I am anticipating that it will be the highlight of the tour in Cambodia. Well really, it's the REASON to visit this country. Anything else is just fodder. The bus ride tomorrow is another 6 hours, and it starts at 7 am. Ugh.

I'm Gonna Miss Saigon

2008-11-18T18:01:00.004+07:00

I left HCMC this morning, and I am writing this from the hotel lobby where I am staying in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It was a decent bus ride, which I will discuss in a bit. First, my final impressions of Vietnam.

All the people I met in HCMC were really, really nice people. I got the impression that they were just interested in getting to know me, and not trying to see how much money I have. I know that sounds crass, but in many places in Asia, there is a lot of that going on. With the exception of one unscrupulous Cylco driver, I really think people in VN are super nice and genuinely friendly.
Food. You can't beat street stall food for quality vs. price. I think most of the best meals I had were in tiny little roadside restaurants. Quite cheap, and quite tasty.
Motorbikes carry more than just people here. I saw all sorts of things being carried on a simple little Honda Dream. Quite often, I've seen two people on a bike, with some large signage wedged in between them, so that the passenger can't see at all. I've seen 5 people on one little bike. I saw one guy with what appeared to be a mobile fire pit on the back seat. I am not too sure what it would be for, but the fire was ablaze.
Police on motorbikes, ride two to a bike. That must be quite the power struggle every day, choosing who gets to be the driver, and who gets to ride shotgun and make siren noises (just kidding).

My trip to Cambodia was slow, and interesting. The bus ride itself was normal (regular bus, regular seats), but the process of getting out of Vietnam and getting into Cambodia was kinda weird. Part way through the trip, the driver slowed the bus down (didn't stop - just slowed down), and some guy hopped on through the open door. He seemed 'official', as he was asking for our VN departure card and $25 USD for the Cambodian Visa. We eventually arrived at the VN border about an hour later. We were marshalled off the bus, and sent in to the Customs room, with our luggage. Our passports were surrendered, and our luggage was x-rayed. We emerged through 'the other side', and took our luggage and passports, and got back on the bus.

The bus was moved about 100 metres further, and we all got off again, at the Cambodian border. Passports in hand, we all march off the bus and hand over the passports again. About 20% of the luggage was x-rayed (a sample?) and then we all got back on the bus. We were driven to a roadside food stall for a lunch break (Cambodian street food is good too!). A half hour later, we hop back on the bus and are given our passports back, with a new Visa attached.

A few hours later, I was woken up from my little snooze, to be informed that my stop was coming up. My luggage was rustled up from the back of the bus (when did it come IN to the bus? It was in the luggage storage area to begin with) and the bus pulled over. I hopped off, and was greeted by some scruffy old man shouting "Mr. Robert? Mr. Robert?". I looked around, and was unhappy to not see a hotel or a taxi. He grabbed my suitcase, and told me to hop on to the back of his vintage motorbike. And I am sure most of you know, I don't pack too light. So, there I was scurrying down the busy rush hour streets of Phnom Penh, on a bike with some old guy, a large suitcase squeezed in between us, and a camera back pack on my back. It must have been a great site.

I checked in to the Castle Hotel (finally, the Knight returns to the Castle). It's pretty nice. They claim 4 stars, but I think it's in a scale of 7. I usually judge a hotel on the bathroom, and whether or not it provides a nice comfy robe. Robe, check. Bathroom, not too bad. The area around the hotel is pretty good, from what I can see. I walked around a little while, and was swarmed by street urchins. The city seems quite nice, and English is spoken everywhere. And the USD reigns supreme. When you buy something, they tell you the price in USD, but only provide Cambodian Riel in change. Sneaky.

Tomorrow, I will do a city tour, with a private tour guide. Hopefully, it's not on the back of a vintage motorbike, driven by a septegenarian.

Mui ne and the Dunes

2008-11-16T22:17:00.006+07:00

On Friday night, I headed to the seaside resort town of Mui Ne. This little resort town is reminiscent of many others I've been to, like Bali, Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, etc. Beautiful in the resorts themselves, but kinda desperate outside.

Here in Vietnam, they really have the buses figured out. I booked a trip with one of the better known travel agencies here, Sinh Cafe. They have a whole fleet of buses that carry people all over SE Asia. I will also be traveling with the same company when I head to Cambodia tomorrow. The bus that I traveled on to Mui Ne was what is known as a 'sleeping bus'. Imagine 3 long rows of bunk beds, stretched along the length of the bus, and you get the idea. When you enter the bus, you have to take your shoes off, just like home. I have to say though, that calling it a 'sleeping bus' is a bit of a misnomer. It's more like a reclining seat bus, or a lay-down-while-you're-hurtled-across-the-country-feet-first bus. The notion of actually sleeping on the bus is ambitious. All the roads are seriously bumpy, and when you're laying down, you feel each and every one of them. Still, it was a pretty cool way to go.

One other thing about the buses here, is that while they may leave relatively on time, getting to your destination at a time close to the estimate is pretty unlikely. In both directions, the arrival time was close to 2 hours later than posted. That's about 50% longer than promised.

One of the reasons I went to Mui Ne was to photograph the white sand dunes that they are famous for. It was pretty cool, to be sure. The only thing missing was the camels and pyramids. It was super hot and toasty, but surprisingly, the sand was not too hot to walk in barefoot. I shot a lot of photos, but they all look the same. White sand, blue sky. It's kinda hard to make sand look like anything other than sand. But, I still enjoyed the trip.

The Resort I stayed in seemed to have a bit of an identity crisis. I don't think the owners really knew who they wanted to be. It was called the Swiss Village Inn. All the buildings were built in the Chinese architecture style. It was all Vietnamese staff. And all of the communications were in Russian. In the restaurant, they played Russian music, it was Russian channels on the TV, and the daily info sheets and boards were all in Russian. I really felt out of place speaking only English.

Tomorrow, I begin a journey to Cambodia. I don't know a lot about the country, so I am going against my normal routine, and going on an organized tour. Although the tour itself is in group, all the actual sightseeing is done individually. My city tour of Phnom Penh and Ankor Wat will be just me and my guide. I like that idea. When I go to a place for the first time, I like to shoot a lot of photos, and when traveling as a group, that's kind of dificult. I will be in Phnom Penh on Tuesday and Wednesday, then on to Siem Reap (and Ankor Wat) on Thursday and Friday. On Saturday afternoon, I head to Bangkok.

Coffee troubles

2008-11-14T14:56:00.006+07:00

I think you all know I like my Starbucks. Well, there is no such thing as a Starbucks in Vietnam. It's one part of the world they have not conquered. I wonder what's taking them so long? Speaking of American fast foods in Vietnam...Kentucky Fried Chicken is here (but not McDonald's). I think KFC is here, because Colonel Sanders looks vaguely like Ho Chi Minh. Just an observation.

Anyways, back to coffee. You'd think it would be simple to get a regular cup of coffee here. After all, it is the single most popular drink in the world (I heard that somewhere). It's more popular than beer, tea or water. But here in Vietnam, they have their own special version, appropriately called 'Vietnamese Coffee'. Clever. This version of coffee is a super thick espresso-type coffee that takes about 10 minutes to seep through a sieve into the cup. You add sweet condensed milk and ice if you want it, and then drink. So, when you order a black coffee, that's what you get.

When I try to explain that I want a 'regular' coffee, I am met with a lot of puzzled looks and need to give long explanations. They just don't brew coffee here. It's either Vietnamese coffee, or if you're lucky, espresso. Today, I was in a small cafe that seemed pretty westernized. Nice, trendy place - with lots of smokers, of course. I ordered a black coffee, and got the Vietnamese coffee. Send it back, and ask for a 'regular black drip coffee'. No such thing. Americano? No to that, too. I can have a latte or cappuccino, but not espresso with water. So strange.

I found one coffee shop that understands the western version of coffee. It's called Highlands Coffee, and it's popular with the Tourist Set. They make Americanos here, and have free WiFi (which is where I am writing this from). I realize that I am not in Canada anymore. And I should adapt to the way things are done 'over here'. But, when it comes to coffee, I think Vietnam stands alone. Of all the other countries I've been to in Asia, getting a regular cup of coffee is pretty easy.

My Vietnam History Lesson

2008-11-13T22:57:00.005+07:00

Over the last few days, I've been doing city tours. It should come as no surprise to anyone that Vietnam has a lot of history, and they take pride in showing it to anyone that wishes to see. On Wednesday, I did what could be described as the Monuments and Pagodas Tour. I think I saw every temple and pagoda in the city (I am sure there are more, but...). As luck would have it, it was "Buddhist Day" or something like that this day. On the 1st and 15th of every month (in the Lunar Calendar), it is Buddhist Day, and the faithful flock to the temples to pray. It was a busy time, but great for photos. I visited what must be the only pink cathedral in the world, too.

I also visited some of the Vietnam War monuments here in HCMC. I purposely avoided the ones that are known to show the photos of chemical warfare waged by the US. I am aware it happened, but not too sure I want to see it. I toured the building known as the Reunification Palace. It was originally built as the home and workplace for the President of South Vietnam during the war, and then served as the site of the official handover of power during the Fall of Saigon in 1975. There are tanks on the front lawn, and a helicopter on the roof of the building to provide some historical context. In the basement of the palace, there are holdovers from the war, including radio rooms, presidential bunkers and provisions rooms. It was pretty interesting.

Also interesting, was the Notre Dame cathedral and the General Post office. Generally post offices would not get me too excited, but this one was designed by Eiffel himself. It was amazing, both on the outside and the inside. It was full of traditional French architecture and style. Today, I visited the Opera House. It was a beautiful sight. In the midst of a country that looks like it is still under construction, and all the workers went home, the Opera House is spectacular.

This weekend, I am going to a seaside resort called Mui Ne. It is well known for it's sand dunes, and nice beaches. I will come back to HCMC on Sunday, for a few days, and then head to Cambodia for a week.

Vietnam, second day.

2008-11-12T22:33:00.006+07:00

So, I've moved to a new hotel. The first one I was in, was pretty creepy. Very small, and full of bugs. I woke up the first morning, to find my water glass crawling with little bugs. It was an easy decision to pick up and move out. I am staying in a 3-star now. It's much nicer, to be sure.

So, I want to talk about traffic in HCMC. My first experience was pretty frightening, but now, I am pretty comfortable with it. Previously, I was a pedestrian, gingerly crossing the streets. Over the last few days, I've been able to be a passenger on the back of a motorbike. And it's not as bad as I thought. Actually, I am kind of impressed.

When I fist experienced it, I just didn't understand how it worked. The more I see it and experience it, the more it makes sense to me. The regular traffic rules that I am used to in Canada just don't seem to apply here, but that's OK. For instance - sidewalks are not really for walking. Pedestrians walk on the streets, along with the motorbikes and buses and cars. The sidewalk is where people park their motorbikes. There is no room to walk.

What I've learned about the traffic flow is that its very rhythmic and fluid. There is a natural hierarchy that applies (buses, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians), but everyone knows it. It's very common to get to an intersection where literally hundreds of motorbikes will converge at once - and they all merge together, in an orchestrated blend of commuters. It's really something to see. If you need to turn at an intersection, you just slowly move your way over there. Signals are not needed. It's pretty clear you want to go there, cause people see you coming. If you need to enter traffic, and you're not on the right side of the road, you just go head first into the opposing traffic, and slowly work your way over to the opposite flow. It seems so crazy when you think about it, but having been on the back of a few motorbikes and experience it, it's really not that bad.

One other thing about the flow here of traffic in HCMC, is how noisy it is. Everyone honks their horns. In a non-stop cacophony. At first, I thought it was an aggressive thing. Like "get outta my way!". But, I've learned its more like "hey - I am here, look out - don't hit me!" sort of defensive honking. People honk all the time, but not to be mean, just to be helpful.

There are some traffic lights, but they are few and far between, and not really obeyed. "Sure, it's red...but that applies to all the people behind me!" And, honestly, I don't think they are really needed. People don't really believe them anyways.

Good Evening, Vietnam

2008-11-10T22:58:00.005+07:00

So, here I am in Ho Chi Minh City. And what a place it is. I was greeted on arrival with a huge rain storm and lots of humidity. It's been raining here a lot, and will continue to do so for a while.

My friend Steven came to the airport to collect me. And I am glad he did. I was quite the 'target' once I exited the airport terminal. Taxi hawkers. Ugh. Steven helped me find a hotel in HCMC. There are LOTS of hotels here, and I don't really know the city well enough to know where to book. I will explore the city a bit tomorrow.

Motorcycles rule the roads here. 90% of the vehicles here are motorikes or scooters. And they are everywhere. Some hold 3 or 4 people, and some are used to cart all manner of goods. I saw one that had a bamboo tree on it, that must have been 10 ft tall. Since it was raining en route to my hotel, most bike riders were wearing plastic ponchos that covered them and the bike.

The taxi ride to the hotel took close to 3 hours. I am not exaggerating. No matter where the driver went, it was a massive traffic jam. Some times, we just sat in one spot for 15 or 2o minutes. The driver would get out of the car, and go chat with other taxi drivers. Only the motorbike drivers managed to move anywhere. It's no wonder that people drive them here. It is reminiscent of Bangkok that way.

We eventually arrived at the hotel (2-star, $33/night). It's one of those hotels where you have to hand in your room key when you go outside for any reason. They also hold your passport. The room here (and the hotel) looks like it was built in the 30's. Very 'authentic'. Wicker furniture. Rubber hose in the shower. Tiny little TV (but lots of channels).

Steven and I went to get some dinner (Pho, what else?) It was still raining a bit, so wee needed to wear flipflops, because of the many deep puddles. Crossing the streets here is an experience everyone should enjoy. Since there are really no traffic lights, and thousands of motorbikes, it's really just a casual stroll across the road. You basically step out on the street, and s l o w l y walk across the road. All the buses and bikes just swerve around you. It's quite frightening at first (OK, it's always frightening), but you just brave it, and it works. I thought Steven was trying to have me killed. He would say "follow me", and start walking across an 8 lane road. The bikes/buses/cars would honk to show they were boss, but they'd move out of your way anyways.

I went to an ATM to withdraw some cash. Gotta have the local coin, right? So I withdrew 1 million. The local currency, the Dong (I hear some of you snickering) has pretty high denominations. 1 Million Dong is about $76 CAD. I am finally a millionaire. Faster than I thought. =)

Tomorrow, I will look around 'the hood' and snap some photos. Not too sure what I will encounter, but I am looking forward to it.

It's different, but that's OK.

2008-11-09T01:27:00.004+07:00

I am sometimes amazed at some of the differences in HKG and Vancouver.
I know it's not fair to compare cities. There is already enough rivalry out there, and I need not contribute. But it's hard not to say or think "in Vancouver, it's 'this' way", or "wow, you'd never see that in Canada."

Some recent observations (not complaints):

Everybody smokes. This is a smoker's paradise. Even the wait staff in restaurants smoke while they wait on you. Today, I was in a nice lounge, and 3 older Chinese men lit up nasty cigars and started puffing, and blowing smoke my way. My clothes stink of smoke every day.
Cockroaches. Everywhere. Nuff said.
There is a job for everyone. A few days ago, I saw one of those people that was power-washing the street pavement. Nothing unusual there, except while he was washing the pavement, he had 2 helpers holding up panels so that the water would not spray the pedestrians.
Clubs are super expensive. I visited a club tonight and paid $260 HKD. I didn't think much of it at the time, but later I did the math, ans I was shocked. That works out to $40. Sure you get a free drink. But come on! $40 for an entry? That's robbery.
Hurry up and wait. This city of Hong Kong has a lot of people. And the traffic moves quite slowly. Even the foot traffic moves slowly. Walking from the end of one block to the other requires careful navigation of slow grannies, delivery carts, large groups of friends that are oblivious to the size they occupy, and cars/taxis that wield supreme power.
Birds. Where are they? They seem quite absent here. In Vancouver, they are everywhere. Here they are very rare. Maybe the cockroaches ate them all.
Circle K and 7-11 are everywhere. Seriously. It seems on most streets, both stores are present, side by side. Then, directly across the street, there is another pair. I think there are 6 of them in a one block radius of my hotel.
Mass transit rules here. The MTR is super efficient and reliable. You can scoot across town (underground) in a few short minutes. The longest part of your journey would be winding you way down through the labyrinth of the MTR station, dropping 4 or 5 stories underground. The actual trip is merely minutes. And it's cheap. I really can't imagine why anyone would want to own a car here.

I like Hong Kong, don't get me wrong. It's a lovely city, and one that I could see myself living in, comfortably. And I know that when you leave the comfort zone of the existence you previously had, you need to learn to accept change. I am willing to do that. But sometimes, it's hard not to notice the small things, and realize how much I took for granted back in 'the old country'.

Hong Kong daze

2008-11-07T15:15:00.009+07:00

Hello Loyal Readers...
I know it's been a few days since you've heard from me. And you're all very curious about what's going on - anxious, even.

Well, I wish I had some exciting stories to tell you. But, the reality is, that I've been pretty low-key for a few days. I've been getting some mundane tasks completed, and preparing for the real part of the journey. I finally worked out all the small details with my HKG bank account. It took much longer to get it resolved than I would have anticipated. It's a good thing that I had cash on hand for the week long period that it took.

I have my Visa for Vietnam, and my one-way ticket to Ho Chi Minh City. I leave Monday afternoon, and arrive a few hours later. My original plan was to fly over to Hanoi first. After all, it's much closer. But, they've had quite a lot of rain there in the last few weeks, and many of the streets are flooded. So, I will start in the south of Vietnam. If the weather improves in the north I will venture up to Hanoi, and visit Danang and Halong Bay as well. After that, I will head to Laos and then northern Thailand. If I stay in HCMC and not head north, then I will head to Cambodia next. I love not really knowing where I will be next.

On Wednesday, I met with a fellow photographer and inspiration, Norm Yip. Norm is a Canadian that moved to HK in the 90's. He was trained and worked as an architect, but preferred to work as an artist and photographer. Norm and I both like to photograph men, but Norm is more successful at it, with 2 published books, and several other publications.

It was a great conversation with Norm. I've always felt a bit intimidated of Norm (well of his skills and success), and look to him with admiration. But sitting down with him made me realize that he is just a normal guy with a passion for photography, like me. We spent a lot of time talking about each others career path, and our respective views of photography. Norm was generous with his time, and offered great advice and critique on my photography. I am glad I had the chance to meet him.

Norm is moving away from photography, and into publishing. He is starting a new magazine in HK called S8. It will focus on the art and photography scene in Hong Kong. Norm is also helping out with a Charity Auction, that I've agreed to participate in. The proceeds will help fund a local Hotline for troubled youth. I have submitted 3 photograhs from my collection. Here is a link to the site that describes the Auction: http://www.studio8hongkong.com/horizons/

The weather has been so amazing here in Hong Kong this week. Sunny and warm, and not humid at all. I went out to take some photos during the late afternoon and early evening. The city works quite late here every day. Most people are not done work until 7 or 8 at night. That makes the markets quite busy all night. I spent some time with my friend Alfie, as well. Alfie tells me that he will be moving to Germany next year to attend university there. I wish him well.

Lazy days in HK

2008-11-04T16:14:00.007+07:00

It's been a couple of nice, lazy days in Hong Kong. Don't get me wrong, though. I haven't been sitting in the hotel watching TV. I've been oot and aboot (that's a Canadian reference for all you non-Canadians). It's just that I haven't been accomplishing a lot, and that's OK. It's nice to be semi-retired. All of the previous times I've been here in Asia, I've always had a looming deadline to return to Canada. So the pressure was on to get things done, and experience as much as I can in the allotted time. Now, I don't have that sense of urgency. I am taking things casually, and it's refreshing.

Yesterday, I spent time with more banking issues (still can't access my cash here), and worked on getting my Visa for Vietnam. The banking issues should be resolved tomorrow. HSBC keeps telling me to come back tomorrow. And then tomorrow. I hope it gets figured out, soon.

The Visa application for Vietnam was pretty uneventful. Basically, it's a revenue grab for The Socialist Republic of Vietnam. The queue for the application was out the lobby, and down the hall. But they processed the lineup at a decent speed. I should have my Visa on Thursday. I just have to brave the queue again.

I met my friend Mandy for drinks at the IFC. Mandy works as a relocation specialist. He makes a living helping companies move their staff to other countries. It was a good meeting, and informative. It might not be all that easy to obtain a working Visa in China. According to Mandy's sources, "At this time the Chinese authorities do not recognise "self employed" individuals for the purposes of obtaining Work Permits." So, this means that a company needs to sponsor me for a work permit. Hmm....

Today, I booked a flight to Ho Chi Minh City. I leave Hong Kong on Monday, and will be in HCMC on Monday night. I don't really have much of a plan for my time in VN. So far, I think I will start in HCMC, and then travel north up the coast to Danang and on to Hanoi. After that, I will enter Vientiane Laos, and then on to Chiangmai Thailand. That should finish up the month of November.

Weekend in Hongy

2008-11-02T17:52:00.006+07:00

It's Sunday night now. I had a great first weekend in Hong Kong. The more time I spend here, the more I realize that I like it, and know it pretty well. However, there are a lot of differences compared to my previous home of Canada.

Some highlights:

I went to a movie last night. Movies are the typical Hollywood blockbusters, blended in with Chinese and Japanese movies. All have subtitles. Either English or Cantonese, or both. And, in Hong Kong, you select your seats when you buy the tickets. So, rather than lining up an hour in advance to get the best seats, your seats are reserved like in a concert or play. Smart.

I had my first experience with the Medical system in Hong Kong. My eczema was not behaving lately (all that stress?). So, I thought it might be best to seek some medical attention locally. I went to a Medical Centre in Tai Koo. I chose a Doctor (rather arbitrary, really). I went in and requested to see the Doctor (this was a Saturday afternoon, keep in mind). I was shown in right away. I explained the malady. He explained the solution. A medication was created for me, onsite. I paid the charge, and walked away with the medicine (which is working just fine, thanks). Try doing THAT in Canada. It would take WEEKS to get an appointment to see a doctor. And, he'd only give you a prescription for medication which you'd have to fill elsewhere.

Today, being Sunday, is "Maids Day Off". That means all the hundreds of thousands of maids and nannies that work here in HK are free to congregate with their comrades. So, basically, that means every but of flat ground in Central HK is overtaken with hordes of maids. They gather in groups of about 6 to 8 in a pod. They find a flat piece of ground, and spread their cardboard or bedsheets out, and eat Filipino or Indonesian foods and play cards and gossip. If you try to access bridge walkways or parks on a Sunday, good luck! You will need to wade through a sea of sitting nannies.

I am happy report that Starbucks is a constant comfort and familiar taste.

Is it November already?

2008-11-01T10:18:00.003+07:00

So, last night was Halloween. Ordinarily, I don't care too much about the event. It all seems a bit too silly, to me. But, boy, do the Hong Kongers take it seriously! I was in the Lan Kwai Fong area, where all the bars are, and it was total mayhem. Many of the streets were blocked off, and costumed revelers were parading all over, drinks in hand.

Yesterday, I spend a good 3 hours at HSBC main branch getting all my banking sorted out. It turns out that my Canada debit card does not work here in Hong Kong. Thankfully, before I left, I initiated the process of setting up a HK account. When I went in to see the Banking People, they were only just getting the paperwork ready. They were informed by HSBC Canada that I was coming, but they only got the news an hour or so before I showed up. So, I have access to my money, but I have to transfer it, as needed, from Canada to HK. It's a hassle, but its not that too bad.

Today is November 1. I guess I have to start planning what I will be doing for the next few months. The end of the year is not that far away, right?

Hong Kong morning post

2008-10-31T05:57:00.001+07:00

Good morning, dear readers.
I got up sooooper early this morning, about 5 am. I guess I am still not quite adjusted to the time diff yet. And you know, for a city that has a constant buzz like Hong Kong, you'd think there would be a coffee shop open at 5am. But where is it?

The streets are eerily quiet here at 5am (ok, probably in most cities). All I saw when I was walking the streets in search of that elusive coffee was the newspaper vendors. There were dozens of them on every street, all stuffing flyers into newspapers, and stacking them in piles.

Yesterday, I met up with my friend Woody. Woody and I spent the afternoon and evening doing what people do in HKG - eat and drink. Eating in small cafes in Hong Kong is always an interesting experience. You are usually seated with other people in the same booth, and you try to ignore them, even though they are sitting directly across from you a few feet away. And good luck getting your food to arrive at the same time - even if you order the same thing.

Dinner out in a nice restaurant is different, of course. Hong Kong has no shortage of great restaurants. The inside ambiance of most of the nice restaurants make you forget the chaos that is outside.

Almost there....

2008-10-30T05:15:00.001+07:00

I am sitting in the Mabuhay Lounge of the Ninoy Aquino International Airport. It's just after 6 in the morning here in Manila. I am waiting for my connecting flight to Hong Kong, in about one hour.

It's nice to be off the plane, of course. I like flying, particularly in Business Class. It's nice to stretch out and be able to sleep. The Philippines Air flight was not all that comfy, though. I had a bulkhead seat, so my legs were always up against a wall. But, I guess it was still better than Coach. And where were the handsome Filipino stewards I was expecting? All the crew were matronly women in their 50's. But they did take care of me. "Anything more you need, Mr. Knight?" "If that's not satisfactory, Mr. Knight, please let me know right away." etc.

The next leg of the journey is the short 2 hour flight to Hong Kong. It gets me in at about 10 am, and then I should be checked in to my hotel in Sheung Wan sometime about noon. It will be a day to relax, and acclimate myself to the time difference. The first few days will be spent reviewing flight options to Vietnam and Cambodia, and dealing with some banking and insurance requirements.

So, even though it's super early in the morning here, I still think I should have a drink. It's not morning for me, and this is a lounge.

It's about to start

2008-10-28T09:44:00.001+07:00

So, readers...
Tomorrow, I will take the first step in my new journey. I fly to Hong Kong, and will be there by Thursday. I will spend the first few days getting time-adjusted, and doing some basic banking/logistical stuff.

My plans for the next few months will be to travel south through SE Asia, visiting Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. I don't really have a set agenda, so I am going to go where it feels right, for as long as it continues to feel right. I expect to be back in Hong Kong in the new year, and then head to China sometime in January or February.

This Blog will be the best place to keep up with my journey and travel adventures. I plan to update it as I go along, where Internet permits. Check back here when you think of it, and see where I am, and view some photos.