Beijing for beginners: a primer

Since I’ve been living in Beijing for a little while now, my keen and observant eye has been noticing the local customs and habits of the ‘Jingers’. What follows is not an opinion of what is right/wrong – it’s simply an observation. You can judge, but I don’t.

1) Very few people speak English here.
Unlike many other cities in Asia, it’s not easy to find English speaking people in stores or restaurants, or driving taxis. I know the onus is on me to learn Chinese, but I just figured there’d be more English speakers here. I use pantomime a lot. There is much waving of hands and pointing.

2) Everyone spits.
Seriously, everyone. Is there that much excess saliva in the locals here, that they have the need to expel it everywhere/anytime? Men, women, children, taxi drivers, policemen, etc…they ALL spit. I’ve had to dodge a few expectorate projectiles while walking the streets. Not used to that.

3) No one follows traffic rules.
Drivers, and their cars/bikes/trucks, reign supreme here. They don’t pay attention to traffic lights or signs. They just drive. If you’re in their way, they will just honk and warn you they’re coming. If they hit you, it’s your fault, because they warned you. Red lights mean nothing. It doesn’t even slow them down. Crosswalks are simply places on roads where pedestrians are more easily located and hit. If the crosswalk is active (green walk signal), that does not mean you have the right to cross. You still have to yield to all cars, because they will NOT slow down for pedestrians. They will only honk and keep coming. You've been warned.

4) The Subway.
Beijing has a very extensive subway system. And they keep building. But for all its’ modernity, it’s still very cheap. All fares, no matter where you go, or how far, is only 2 yuan (30 cents). There are card dispensers where you can key in your destination, but all fares cost the same. Perhaps because of this low fare, the subway attracts all manner of passengers. Some subway riders have no shame. I’ve seen women breastfeeding (shirt up, baby locked on), I’ve seen countless men without shirts, and I’ve seen people sitting on the floor, eating. Many train passengers are not very polite, too. Once, I actually missed my station, because I could not exit the train. It’s not uncommon for waiting passengers to push on the train before they let the exiting passengers leave. I’ve learned to be very pushy, and even to put my elbows up and shove my way off the train. It seems rude, but it’s survival.

5) Supermarkets.
There are 17 million people in Beijing. And I think about half of them are in a supermarket every time I visit. It's total chaos in my local market (a massive 2 level Carrefour), but it's great to go, if only just to observe people. Some things seem to be backwards to what makes sense to me. For instance, all the fruits and vegetables are shrink wrapped, but all the meat is in open air cases, unwrapped. You can pick up the raw meat with your bare hands, but the fruit is in plastic, for your protection. Also, there is a whole aisle dedicated to rice. Bulk rice, imported rice, massive fork-lift size bags of rice. You name it, they have it.

6) Beijing Bikinis.
It's freaking hot here in Beijing, in the height of summer. Unbearable humidity on some days. And the practical Chinese men here, have a solution known as the Beijing Bikini. Basically, when it's hot out, the men roll up (or pull up) their shirts up to the nipples, in an effort to keep their bellies cool. And it doesn't matter how chubby they are, it still happens. They have no shame. I plan to shoot as many of these Bikini's as I can find and create a gallery soon.

Expo 2010

During my short time here in China, I’ve had the opportunity to visit the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. And what a spectacle it is. This event is a showcase for the city of Shanghai, and for China and it’s people. It’s been a 8 year project for the city, and the work they’ve done to prepare for the show is evident all over the sprawling metro area.

Expo 2010 is a massive undertaking, covering over 5 square kilometers along both sides of the Pudong River that bisects the city. It has cost 2x what the Beijing Olympics cost (about $4 billion), and will generate billions in revenue for the city. Almost 200 countries have participated in some way, as have countless corporate sponsors and international organizations (UN, FedEx, Coke, etc).

I visited the site over a period of 5 days, going in the day times, and at night. It’s really impossible to see the whole site in one day, partly because of the oppressive heat, and also because of the sheer size of the place. I was primarily interested in the architecture of the buildings, more than I was with what was inside the pavilions. I enjoyed shooting the buildings at nighttime, when they were lit up nicely, but some buildings looked better in the daylight.

Some of the country pavilions were so popular, that people would line up for over 5 hours for the opportunity to view the interiors. I was not one of those people. I avoided any queue that lasted more than 30 minutes. Most of the smaller pavilions were not that exciting to view inside. I visited Canada’s pavilion, but was fairly disappointed. Many of the countries showed generic video footage of people looking happy to live there, and going about their happy daily existence. Most of the videos were interchangeable, and could be shown in any other pavilion.
Some advice, if you choose to go (it closes Oct 31, 2010):

- Spend most of your time there at night. Arrive in the mid afternoon (3pm or so), and stay until about 11 pm. The crowds will be smaller, and it will be cooler. If you arrive at 9 am, you will need to queue for up to an hour just to get into the park. Arriving later means a smooth sail into the park.

- If you’re keen to see the popular pavilions, be prepared to wait. There are long lines right up until closing. The big ticket countries (Germany, Italy, UK, Spain, Saudi Arabia) won’t accept any new people in line past 9pm. Most pavilions take about 15 minutes to walk through, even if the queue is 5 hours.
- The China Pavilion is the crown jewel of Expo. Only 100,000 people per day are allowed in. If you wish to view the interior, you’ll need to line up about 6 am to obtain a ticket. The tickets will have a visit time (I believe).

Moving in...

Part of the process of setting roots in Beijing, is finding a place to live. And I’ve done that. It was not a fun process. I’ve chosen a place in Southeast Beijing, in a district called Pingguo, close to the subway.

The steps involved in finding this apartment where challenging. Every day, for a few weeks, I would scour the housing ads posted in the Beijing English websites. I contacted 5 different agents, but only one replied. The girl that contacted me spoke perfect English, although she believed she was bad. Perhaps the other agents didn’t reply to me, because my price range was too low, or they don’t like dealing with foreigners.

I looked at about 10 places, most of which where awful. I honestly don’t understand how people can live in such filth. All of the apartment owners promised to have the place cleaned if I chose to lease their property. After seeing several bad places, I told the agent that I only wanted to see clean places. It was clear though, that she and I have differing opinions on the definition of the word ‘clean’.

Once I finally selected an apartment, the leasing process was the next challenge. Beijing custom requires that tenants pay every 3 months, and pay a 1 month deposit. So, that’s 4 months up front. And I had to pay in cash for the first payment, so I arrived with a wad of cash that looked like I robbed a bank. Since the largest note in China is the 100 yuan note, and the rent was in the thousands, you can imagine how big the stack was for 4 months rent. Obtaining the money from the ATM seemed risky, with a long line up waiting for me to stuff the hundreds of notes into an envelope.

I am slowly learning the small details of renting an apartment. Today, my power went out. I found out that I had to pay for my electricity in advance using a smart card the Agent gave me, at a local convenience store. Once the smart card was reloaded, I inserted it into the electric meter, and flipped the breaker and my power was back on. How can I know this? Also, I have to pay for my Internet service for a full year, in advance. And even then, the Government protects me from ‘dangerous sites’ like youtube and facebook. Lucky me.

There is a nice park, just outside my building. This is still pretty rare in Beijing, where land is valuable for its’ 17 million people. Most apartments look out over other buildings and dirty streets, so it’s nice to have some greenery to look at out my window. There is a large mall, and a Carrefour a few minutes walk away, and dozens of restaurants and shops all over the neighborhood. I feel like an oddity here, though. I was told by the Agent that the buildings and neighborhood were popular with foreigners, but I’ve really only seen a few westerners around.

I'm back, finally.

I can write again!

It’s been too long. And I have so much to say.
I am now living in Beijing, China.

Yes, really, China.

And because it’s China, my ability to access websites that I typically use every day (like Facebook, Youtube, this blog, etc) are blocked by government censors. Even some sites that are completely innocent are blocked for some reason – like ‘digital-photography-school.com’ of all things. So, I have not been able to write about all my experiences in China, until now. I’ve found that there is a back-door access method that the majority of Chinese people use to view sites that are forbidden. That is why/how you’re reading my words now.

So, here I am in China. Again.
But this time it’s different. This time, I’ve taken steps that will anchor me here longer than all the previous times. I’ve taken a job, teaching photography at Beijing Center of Photography. And I’ve leased an apartment for a full year (the standard term here). And I’ve obtained a business Visa, so I can legally stay and work (never done that before).

When I think back almost 2 years ago, Beijing was not even something I had considered. But, in those 2 years, I’ve visited this city a few times, and quite like it. Though I know it will take some adjusting. I know I will miss Thailand, and the many friends I have there. And the same goes for Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. I am about as far from those places as I can be, and won’t have too many chances to visit them for a while.

I have a lot to do here in Beijing over the coming months. First, I need to ensure I make enough money to support myself (the teaching gig is part time). Second, I need to start learning some Mandarin, fast. And I want to get to know the city better. And now that I have access to my blog again, I need to get back to writing more often.

Heading North

Today was a sad day. A number of circumstances have pushed me into making a decision to leave my beloved Bangkok. It was not an easy decision to make, either. I've spent a little more than 8 months living in Bangkok, and it's been wonderful.

For those of you that know me well, you will know that I've struggled to get a decent job in Thailand, and this contributed to my departure. For about a month or so, i began working on a new magazine that was to be published and distributed throughout SE Asia, but after the protests rocked Bangkok in April and May, the investor pulled out of the project and I was out of work again. That was short lived.

The political protests have destroyed much of Bangkok, with some popular shopping malls playing victim to anti-government forces. The largest mall in Bangkok was completely destroyed due to senseless arsonists. What does a shopping mall have to do with politics? Countless billions of baht have been lost due to the crisis. It may take years for the economy to recover. So many foreign Governments (including mine) warned their citizens to stay away. Only recently, have they lifted their travel advisories.

In the period since my short-term job ended, I've been seeking work all over Asia (including Thailand). I've sent applications to postings in Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. The only responses I've had at all are in China. So I've made the decision to chase them down, and see if I can get a job out of one of them. So I am now in Hong Kong again, in order to get a Visa for China. I will be in Shanghai and Beijing later in June.

Leaving Bangkok was a difficult thing to do, but i think it is the smart thing to do. I will miss the many friends that I've met while there. Some more than others. My departure was sudden, so i didn't really get a chance to say goodbye in a proper way. But I hope to return soon, and pick up the friendships where we left off. And really, China is only a few countries away. I will continue to seek work in SE asia every day (especially Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore), so who knows.

Wet, wet, wet

It's Songkran here in Thailand. That's Thai New Years for all my non-Thai readers. And it's unlike any other New Years festival I am familiar with. Actually, here in Thailand, locals celebrate 3 different New Years. Officially, Thailand observes the Western calendar year, so the Dec 31/Jan 01 event happens here as well. And considering the large Chinese influence in Thailand, the Lunar New Years is also observed. I think they got it right here: 3 New Years in the span of 4 month can't be too bad.

What makes the Thai New Years unique, is that unlike other New Years, the participants act out in a manner that can only be described as chaotic. In Western culture, New Years is all about observing the changing of the year and being with the one you love. In Chinese culture, it's all about family. Spending time with relatives is paramount to the Lunar New Year. But in Thailand, it's an all-out street war waged with water and white paste.

Traditionally, the Thai New Year observes some Buddhist ceremonies, cleansing the statues with water. The 'blessed' water would then be collected, as run-off from the cleaning, and gently poured over the shoulders of the community elders for good luck. This has evolved considerably into an massive pouring of water on everyone, from every conceivable vessel. You can't walk down the street during Songkran without being soaked from head to toe with water. The fact that Songkran coincides with the hottest month of the year in Thailand is a benefit (temps rise to +40 in April).

When I first visited Thailand during Songkran, back in 2005, I was not prepared at all. I had no idea what was happening, and how to manage the experience. I remember that I hired a taxi and toured the main areas around my hotel, and stared in wide-eyed amazement at what I was seeing. Thousands of people would line the streets with buckets and water guns, throwing water at anyone that would pass by. This year, as a resident, I've decided to get involved fully. So, I bought a massive 2 litre water gun with pump-action, and a waterproof camera (I have take photos, right?).

I ventured out onto Silom Road, and made my way up the street into the crowd, and was soaking wet within minutes. The water dousing is all in good fun, and not violent in any way. People shoot water in a playful way, and fully expect to be shot at in return. Every shot of water is an invitation to shoot back. There is an etiquette for water shooting too. It's OK to shoot at Elders, but you shoot at their hands in respect. With others, it's open season! You try not to aim for the face, but anywhere else is fine.

Some people don't bother with the water at all. Some prefer to apply a white paste on the face or bodies of passers by. This is symbolic of a Buddhist blessing. It's applied gently, and it's polite to say "thank you" to the applier, since it is meant as a blessing.

This year's celebrations have been reduced, largely due to the political protests that have been going on for the past several months. Many foreign tourists who would normally flock to Thailand during Songkran are absent this year, for fear of being harmed by protesters. It's not as bad as the media is reporting, and most of the protesting has disappeared during New Years. Overall, it's been a truly enjoyable, and wet week.

Suk San Pee Mai!

Sydneysiding

So, I am back in Sydney. Who knew? When I was here in Dec 08, I thought it may be my only trip down under. But things change, and here I am again. Let me explain...

I've had a few months of steadily growing work and networking while in Bangkok. I've met some wonderful people, who've given me some opportunities to produce some great work. Particularly, I met the people who produce the largest circuit parties in Asia (for my straight readers, do a wiki search for "Circuit Parties" to catch up). I was given the chance to attend and shoot during a series of parties in Koh Samui, Thailand. It was a great time, and the pictures were amazing. I am not much of a party goer myself, but I know a good photo op, when I see it. The producers then asked me to shoot the guys for their next party coming up in April. It was a great experience, since I got to work with some great professional models. All of the advertising for gCircuit's next party includes photos shot by me. It was an unpaid job, but I am listed as a sponsor, and may get more work from it later on.

The opportunity to shoot at the parties in Sydney during Mardi Gras then came up, and it was a chance I couldn't turn down. I managed to obtain a Media Pass that will allow me to shoot the parade from street level, and gain access to the main circuit parties as well. I will be shooting and writing for Spice magazine from Bangkok, and for Paul Marin Productions (lighting/laser producer). I also hope to gather a large number of photos that will allow me to do an exhibition afterward.

I am looking forward to spending the next few weeks here in Sydney. It's summer, and it's beautiful out. Mardi Gras is an event I've considered going to for years, but it's always been so far away. Now, it's much closer to where I live so here I am.

2009 - A Travel Review

2009 is done. And what a year it's been, for me. Whenever the new year comes, I always take stock of what I've done over the previous year. And this year, I decided to look back over 2009 and define my top 10 travel destinations. I've been a lot of places this past year, and had many wonderful memories. I've been to more than 10 places of course, but here is a list of my favourites this year (in chronological order)...

1) Sydney, Australia

This was my first time in Australia. I actually arrived in Sydney in 2008, but stayed there over the New Year, making it my first location in 2009. Sydney surprised me. I often hear that it's a beautiful city, and a great destination, but I still kinda doubted it. But when I was there, I was impressed with the place. The harbour, the nightlife, the people - all wonderful. I am considering returning in a few months.

2) Melbourne, Australia

I was in Melbourne when it was my birthday. Of the two cities I visited in Australia, I preferred Melbourne. It has a thriving artists community, and the city center is beautiful. If I was to ever live in Australia, I think it would be in Melbourne.

3) Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, and certainly one worth visiting. The city has a slower pace and it's own style, and feels quite different from Bangkok. I was there during the annual umbrella festival, which was an amazing event.

4) Hong Kong, China

I have always had a soft spot for Hong Kong, and have spent more time in this city than any other place in Asia. I feel very comfortable in Hong Kong, and have many friends that I consider important. I ended up 'living' in Hong Kong for a total of 6 months this past year, and got to know it even better than before. I've learned that it's very expensive, and difficult to live in, if you are not connected to the right people. But, it's still a highlight of my year.

5) Xitang, China

When I was in Shanghai in April/May, I visited this small village a few hours away. It is a beautiful little town with a small canal system. It's overrun with tourists now, since it was featured in the movie Mission Impossible III, but it's still very beautiful and worth the short trip.

6) Beijing, China


I kind of knew in advance that I'd like Beijing, before I arrived there. It has all the things I like in a city: historical monuments, thriving art community, non-stop culture and great shopping. Seeing the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall is something that everyone should do in their lifetime.

7) Bali, Indonesia

Bali is certainly the most beautiful part of Indonesia. I've been 4 times now, I think. And each time, it's better, as I find nicer Villas to stay in, and better beaches to visit. Bali has a recognizable style all it's own, and there are so many amazing properties and restaurants/clubs. Well worth seeing, again and again.

8) Penang, Malaysia

Penang has so much going for it, and is among the best little places I've visited in Asia. Since it is a World Heritage site, it's protected, and much of it's history is still very visible. I've shot a lot of great photos around the island, and would recommend visiting it to any photographer. And it's one of few places in Malaysia that you can get pork. =)

9) Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, and Cambodia in general, is amazing. Of course, the highlight of Siem Reap are the historical Angkor Wat temples. I spent a week there in September, visiting as much of the park as I could. It was well worth it, as I've amassed a huge library of great images from this park that may one day be closed to visitors.

10, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

I quite like the city of Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon as it's often known). The monuments to the Vietnamese War are interesting, the food is great (but not the coffee), the shopping is cheap, and the people are very nice. I think Vietnam's time for a tourism boom has come. I'd certainly like to return, and to visit more areas in the country.

Christmas in Asia

This is my second Christmas in Asia since I moved here in Oct 2008. Last Christmas, I was in the island paradise of Bali. This year I will be in the crowded city of Bangkok. And much to my surprise, Christmas is celebrated everywhere.

I guess I thought that Christmas was a western thing, or at least a Christian thing. But it's simply not the case. It's impossible to walk down the streets or in a mall in Bangkok, without seeing Christmas decorations and hearing carols. Christmas movies are on TV (Grinch, Fred Claus, Jingle All The Way, Miracle on 34th, etc.), and fake snow is everywhere.

Growing up in Canada, I always thought of Christmas as a religious event that became a commercial event. But it still had the Christian base behind it. People still understood what Christmas meant (the birth of Christ, etc). The concept of Santa Claus and the myth of the flying reindeer was secondary at first, but then became the primary focus of the period. The Christmas season became a huge stressful event that people saved up for all year. And there were images and totems that became associated with Christmas, such as the decorated tree, the snowman and candy canes.

But here in Southern Asia, where Christianity is uncommon, and snow is impossible, Christmas is as prevalent as it is back in Canada. However, the religious aspect of Christmas is removed in most cases. What's left of Christmas are the images of a cold weather festival. That's what confuses me the most. Is that what Christmas is about - snow? And if so, why is it celebrated here?

I was in Ho Chi Minh City last week, because my Visa for Thailand expired, and I had to exit the country to obtain a new one. While I was there, I was amazed at the volume of Christmas decorations covering the city. And it seemed quite strange to me, to see all the Christmas trees and the Santa Claus statues everywhere. Young families were dressing their children in festive clothing, and placing them in front of the displays to be photographed. I believe that 99% of the people in Vietnam have never seen snow, but at Christmas time, the city is covered in the fake stuff.

One more thing that Christmas means to me, is spending time with family and other loved ones. My family is only a few people now, and I miss them all. My friends are many, and I cherish the time I have with them, and the happiness they bring to my life. I wish all a Happy Festive Season (as they call it here), snow or no snow.

On to Year Two...

Wow. It's been a year since I left Canada. Where has the year gone? Honestly, it feels like I just left. Maybe that's because we live in such a connected world now, that I am in daily touch with friends back home, so I don't feel the homesickness that would be normal for such a long time away.

I look back on what my plans were, when I left Vancouver at the end of October 2008. I had dreams of having a successful life in Asia, with a fulfilling career and comfortable home (none of which I have yet). But a lot has changed since then. Is it because I've become more aware of the reality of living abroad? Have I grown and changed a lot? Maybe some of each.

Sure, it's been a great year. I've seen much of the SE Asia that was new to me, and I've met many wonderful people who have become great friends. And I've spent a lot of money. It's not easy to live without a steady income when you are traveling. Hotels and restaurants and flights cost a lot. Over the last 12 months, I've been to 12 countries and taken 30 flights. But I have no regrets. I wouldn't turn down the opportunity to do this again. I would do some things a little differently, but I would still do this.

Currently, I am residing in Bangkok. Thailand is pretty cheap to live in, even when paying the tourist prices. I rent a small apartment in the Silom area of Bangkok. It's nothing fancy, but it offers all I need in an apartment. It's close to most of the things I need on a daily basis (food, coffee, laundry, liquor). There is a professional photo lab nearby, and a post office next to me. What more do I need?

Bangkok will be my home for the next little while, while I sort things out. I am shooting lots, and still enjoying my time in Thailand. I have to figure out some issues with Visas still, but I think I can work that out. I still don't have any solid plans to return to Canada just yet. I don't think it's time.

Bangkoking

I like Bangkok. Always have. And for many people who've never been here, they wonder why. And it's kind of hard to explain why, actually. Even local Thais wonder what the tourists see in the place. It's certainly not for the traffic gridlock, or the dirty pavements, or the taxi scams. I like it for the great street food, the genuinely nice people, cultural heritage, non-stop market shopping, and the luxurious cinemas.

Over the past 3 weeks or so, I've had an opportunity to see what it is like to live in this sprawling city. All the previous times I've been here, I always had a ticket out - a deadline. It made me cram as much in to my days as possible, so that I had a good time here. Now, since I am not in any hurry to leave, my days have been much more relaxed. I know that if I don't get to that market or shrine today, there is always tomorrow.

Since I've been here, I've tried to revisit many of the places that I've been to in the past, so that I can enjoy them with a slower pace. So, I've been back to the Grand Palace, many Wats, the weekend market, etc. It's been great to spend more time at these places, and not worry so much about getting to the next place so I don't miss anything.

Another thing that I've done since I got here, was to get another tattoo. I've been thinking about getting a second one, for a long time. It's commonly said that once you get your first tattoo, you will always want more. That is how it was for me, at least. But the challenge in getting a tattoo is determining just what to get. The placement on the body is secondary to the design. Actually. in my mind, it hardly matters where you get it. It's the design that is key.

I long assumed that while I am in Thailand, I would get a tattoo that was representative of the country. So, for weeks, months, years, I was flipping through tattoo sample books, and just never settled on anything I liked. Most of the Thai characters looked angry. It just wasn't me. I am more the silent gentle type. So, I thought long and hard about what it is that I wanted to draw into my skin for all time. One idea that kept coming back to me, was Haida designs. I've always liked the style and boldness of the designs. I don't profess to understand what it all means, but they speak to me, nonetheless.

So, I settled on a Haida sun design. The one that I chose was actually quite large, and very detailed. What I ended up getting was the center part of the design. But the reasoning for not getting the whole artwork was purely financial. I paid 5500 baht for this one, and it would have been 15000 baht for the entire design. However, I am still pretty happy with it. This tattoo was done the 'normal' way, with electric needles. It hurts a little, but you get used to it. I've had this for about 4 days now, and it's starting to peel, so it will fade down to the final colours in a short while.


I am still seeking work. I've widened my net now, and I am looking for positions in Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong and Indonesia. I've been sending in applications for lots of stuff, but still no bites. But, being the confident 'glass half full' type of guy, I know something will turn up.

Final Days in Cambodia

I am now back in Bangkok - still one of my favourite cities in Asia. The final days in Siem Reap were very enjoyable. And the pictures I've gathered will be a testament to the memories I've had.

On Day 6, Pilu and I went to one of the oldest temples known to exist in Cambodia, called Beng Mealea. It is mostly untouched from the way it was discovered, other than some walkways and safety supports put in. Most of the walls have tumbled down, and what remains upright are largely covered with strangler fig trees. The whole temple is shaded from the surrounding forest, and most of the stones are green with moss. Because this temple is about 90 minutes drive from Siem Reap, it is not that popular with tourists. We saw only a handful of Japanese tour groups, and pretty much had the place to ourselves.
On Day 7, we took a tour of Tonle Sap lake by boat. This lake is the heartbeat of Cambodia and is the largest fresh water lake in SE Asia. The lake changes in size depending on the season. During the wet season (May - Oct), the Mekong River rises rapidly, and flows into the lake. The lake can swell from 2m to 10m in depth, and increase in size from 2500 sq km to over 13000 sq km. During the dry season (Nov - Apr), the flow changes, and the lake drains out to the Mekong River, lowering the lake and reducing the fishing.

There are entire villages that thrive on the lake, complete with restaurants, schools, churches and livestock pens. As the lake changes size, the villages move along with it, to follow where the fish are. When we were touring the lake, there were countless women with small children begging for money wherever tourists would be. It was kind of sad to watch, because there were so many. It was strong evidence of the poverty in Cambodia and how vital tourism is to the country.


So, now I am back in Thailand. I will spend the next month or so in a final push to locate some work. I will be concentrating my job hunt on Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia. And of course, I will be taking photos of Bangkok with every chance I get.

Angkor What?

Day 5.
I have to say, I've been blessed with perfect weather since I've been here. It rained a little bit on the first morning, but not since. I was expecting rain every day. It's hot and sunny with a few white puffy clouds - perfect for photos.
Yesterday, I hit the Big 3 temples. They are the ones that tourists go to for a 'must see' tour if they only have one day. They include the eponymous Angkor Wat, the tree covered Ta Prohm, and the iconic Bayon. When people see photos of this region of the world, it's likely that they would see images of one of these 3 sites. They are the most popular, and the most overrun with busloads of tourists.
Angkor Wat
Ta Prohm

This time, I hired a tuk tuk to get me back and forth. Since I've been there before, I didn't really need a guide. Besides, this time it was purely a photographic journey. I was on the hunt for images for my stock portfolio. That means, I would plant myself in one spot, patiently waiting for the crowds to disperse for that split second for a photo. Despite the crowds, I still managed to get lots of photos with no tourists. I think it was because of the time of day I was in the temples. Whatever the reason, I am happy with the results.
Bayon
Bayon

Today, I visited another set of temples to the southeast of Siem Reap, called the Roluos Group. It was 3 temples dating back to the 9th century, and is in an area that was once the capitol of Angkor. These temples were pretty much tourist free. But they are all quite small, in comparison to the Big 3. The best of the 3 temples was one called Bakong. It is very well preserved, considering the age. The other 2 temples were very small, and largely destroyed from age and weathering.
Bakong

When I was leaving Bakong, I decided I wanted something to drink. When I made this somewhat clear, I was surrounded by young girls, all trying to sell me a beer. They were all yelling to get my attention - all competing for a $2 sale. They were ravenous. It was hard to figure out who deserved the coveted sale. One young girl - she must have been 12 - suggested they compete for my $2 by playing a game amongst themselves. They gathered in a circle and started playing a game that seemed like rock/paper/scissors to me. They were got louder as the game progressed. Eventually, a winner was determined, and the losing girls sulked away. With the beer finally in my possession, I opened it, and it sprayed everywhere. I guess it was shaken during the excitement of the competition.

Tomorrow, I am traveling far afield from Siem Reap. I am going to a temple that is also overgrown with forestation. It's known to be popular amongst photographers. So, I am looking forward to it.

Reap-ing the rewards of Cambodia

It's day 3 in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I've really enjoyed my time here so far. And I am learning a lot. For instance, I learned that the name "Siem Reap" means "Siam Defeated" - a reference to the ongoing feud with Thailand next door. Though, the name is somewhat ambitious, since Thailand has conquered this part of Asia many times over. Even today, I read in the paper about border and temple disputes between the neighbouring countries.

I spent my first full day, exploring a wide range of different temples and Wats around the region. I hired a local guide name Pilu - an intelligent young man that speaks English very well (not to mention Khmer and Mandarin). I gave pretty loose instructions to my guide: I am here to take photos - show me the photogenic parts of Cambodia. He told me that he enjoyed having me as a client, because he didn't have to talk so much, explaining the history of the temples. I am somewhat interested in the history, but not that much. I am mostly concerned that I get the name of the temple spelled correctly.


So, on day one, I visited 7 temples. I could list them all here, but even I can't make sense of all the names. Lots of temples have similar sounding names, that only locals can tell apart. I thoroughly enjoyed each and every temple for different reasons. What I found particularly interesting, from a photographic point of view was that all 7 temples are seldom visited by the hordes of tourists that you see in the main Big 3 temples.


On day two, we took a longer journey into one of the local mountains, called Phnom Kulea. The attractions on this mountain are plenty. There is a Buddhist temple (or is that Pagoda?) carved into the mountain side. There is a famous river where there is reportedly more than 1000 lingas carved into the bedrock in the flowing river. (For those who don't know: Linga = penis). Much to my disappointment, we didn't see many of them, because the water was too high, thanks to the rainy season. Oh well, you see one carved penis, you've seen them all, right?

The highlight of the mountain though, was the waterfall. This is a very popular leisure site amongst the Khmer people, and understandably so. It's a very long drive up a treacherous road, but very much worth the trip. The waterfall has many levels, with some that are safe for swimming in. It was a nice day, and not at all what I've assumed I would see in Cambodia.



Over the next few days, I will be spending more time visiting Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Bayan (those are the Big 3). They are bound to be overrun by tourists, but I will make the best of it.

Onward...

It's my last day in Hong Kong. After more than 3 months here (with a few side trips), I've decided that I have to move on. I've been looking for work here, but have had very little success in my search. I know I will miss Hong Kong, and especially the many friends I have here. I wish that things were different, and that I was able to find permanent work here, but that just wasn't to be.

So, today I have a flight south to Bangkok. I've decided to reposition myself in Thailand for a month or so while continuing my job hunt. Thailand is considerably cheaper to live in than Hong Kong. And when you don't have a steady income, that's a big factor to consider. I will continue to hunt for jobs in Hong Kong, while I am in Bangkok. But I think the best chances for me lay in Thailand and Singapore.

But, before I settle in to Bangkok, I am going to take a side trip to Cambodia. I was in that country for a week last November, and I really enjoyed my time there. On that trip I spent time in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. This time I will spend a whole week in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is the closest town to Angkor Wat - considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. I will be exploring the many temples of the area for the whole week. Last time I was only able to spend one day in Angkor. And considering the area is about 400 square kilometers, that is not nearly enough time. I really only saw the highlights. This time I hope to see all the hidden areas only locals see.

It will likely be raining most days when I am in Cambodia (it is the rainy season), but that won't dampen my spirits for photos. It will likely only rain for a portion of the day, so I will still be able to get some shooting in. Then, on to Bangkok!

Decision Time

It's been a month, I know. I used to write in this blog 2 or 3 times per week. But that was back when I was seeing and experiencing new things all the time. But lately, it's the same all the time. I am still here in Hong Kong of course, but I am not sure it will be for too much longer. Hong Kong is an expensive city, particularly if you don't have a job. I can't believe it's almost September. Where has this year gone?

Over the last month, I've been on a few trips. I spent a few days in Shenzhen, Penang, Bangkok and Singapore. Each time I go to those places, I wonder: should I be living there? I like Penang a lot. It's got great places to photograph. But is that enough to live there? Bangkok - well, it's Bangkok. It's always been one of my favourite places in Asia. And Singapore is certainly an option too. One of my friends thinks it's the best place for Westerners to live, since it is quite Western in it's own way. He called it "Asia Lite". I will need to make a decision soon, though. For the first time this year, I am also wondering if I should return to Vancouver...

Lately, I have been spending my days pouring over job postings online. I have been looking for both photography jobs and project manager jobs. I look for jobs in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. I hope something comes through soon. In the meantime, I am also trying to get some photos published through some Stock Photo agencies. I have been sending sample work to a few agencies, and getting favourable responses so far.

Last week, my good friend Terry came to visit me from Malaysia. Terry is an accomplished photographer and Photo Shop wizard. He knows more about photo editing than I ever will. I guess we're both unemployed photographers. Terry and I spent a few days being tourists in Hong Kong, and shot lots of photos. We had a great, but short visit.


The lease on my Hong Kong apartment is up in less than 3 weeks. Big decisions are coming up. Where, what, how, when? Mostly where, though.

Hong Kong Home

Hong Kong. What can I say? It's home, at least for now. I am comfortable here. Will I stay here forever? I dunno. I'd like to. But that is yet to be seen. Over the past 8 months (yes, it's been 8 months), I've been in more of a travel mode. But now, I am more in the 'find work fast' mode.

I've really enjoyed traveling around SE Asia and China. It's provided a range of experiences that have changed me and I will never forget. But now, it's time to get back to work. I can't really be as lazy forever. I hope I remember how to work.

I am not saying that I've not done anything at all. I've been shooting 10's of thousands of photos. I've shot many portfolio shots for lots of guys. I've built up my stock library. I've spent countless hours editing photos. But none of that work is paying me, and none of it is getting me a working Visa.

I spend a lot of my time now looking for work. I keep running up against walls, though. Sometimes, it's a language thing, sometimes it's a qualification thing. Sometimes it's both. But most days, I come across nothing. But I look every day, regardless. I've applied for a few jobs recently, but haven't had any responses yet. I've come to terms with the idea that I may not be able to find a photography job here, and have been applying to jobs that play to my Project Management skills. Once I get a working visa, then I can continue to pursue my photography. Well, I will always pursue my photography, but I need the job first, right?

I am comfortable here in Hong Kong. I like my little apartment, and have plenty of friends. My apartment is nestled in the hills of Central, in the SoHo district. I have a happy domestic life, and find no shortage of things to do to occupy my days. Now that is is summer, the weather in Hong Kong is very humid. Most days are hot - about +32c - and with humidity in the high 80's or 90's. I often wonder what the point is, of taking a shower before I go out. Within a few minutes of being outdoors, I am soaking wet with a mixture of sweat and humidity.

Last week, I had the opportunity to shoot an up and coming new model here in Hong Kong, named Gabe. It was a great shoot, and we were accompanied by one of the local stylists to manage the clothing on the shoot. I am happy with the results. Gabe has received favourable feedback on the photos. Hopefully, it will generate more work for both of us.

Weekend in Pee-Nang

I had a lovely weekend in Penang, Malaysia. I arrived in George Town on Friday night, and left on Monday afternoon. It was not long enough. Next time I come to Malaysia, I will definitely spend more time in this little town.

The thing that struck me about Penang, was how many old buildings were still there. Unlike many other cities in Asia, Penang is hanging on to its heritage. In 2008, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site - I suppose partly for this reason. The city of George Town has preserved much of the colonial heritage that makes it interesting. I really enjoyed exploring much of the small city on foot, and marveling in the multiculturalism. In one small area, I saw Muslim mosques, Hindu shrines, Buddhist temples and Christian churches - all within blocks of each other. I managed to find a pork lunch too - in a Swiss restaurant in the Little India area of this Muslim country.




One of the other things that surprised me about Penang, is that it is a high tech powerhouse. Many computer manufacturers have plants here, including Intel, AMD, Dell, Seagate, Western Digital, Motorola, and loads more. I had no idea that so much was made in this tiny state. And I've since learned that much of the product testing for the latest high tech gizmos is done here as well.

I shot a lot of photos of the historic areas of George Town, and I hope to return to shoot more. I can easily spend countless days photographing the many old buildings and row houses that cover every street. It's a photographers dream location.



I am back in Hong Kong for a little while again. I have some photographers to meet, friends to reconnect with, and pork to eat.

Malaysia, Truly Asia

I’ve spent the last week in Kuala Lumpur (again). I keep returning to this little city for some reason. It’s my third time here in about 6 months. I wonder what the draw is? Great food? Cheap lodging? Cute boys? (Or is that cute food, great lodging and cheap boys?) Regardless of the reasons, I found myself back here enjoying it again.

I have been here enough so that it’s not really a mystery to me anymore. I kinda know what KL has to offer, and seen most of it. Some of my friends wonder why I would bother coming here, since there is little to do. And they are right, a bit. There really isn’t a lot to do. I think the most famous thing about KL are the Pertonas Towers, which are (now) the tallest twin towers in the world. They are quite beautiful buildings, to be sure. And they look spectacular at night – partly because the smog isn’t as obvious at nighttime. I’ve never been to the observation deck of these towers (there is a sky bridge connecting them), because to me, the towers ARE the view. The surrounding area is not quite as nice to look at.

I also visited the Batu Caves when I was here this time. It was on my ‘to-do list’ for KL ever since my first visit. This time I managed to get there. The caves are a Hindu Shrine nestled in the belly of a huge cave in one of the surrounding mountains of KL. It requires a climb of 1000 steps to reach the shrine. As caves go, it was pretty impressive. As shrines go, it was pretty unimpressive. The interior of the cave was extremely large, but it’s been paved inside decades ago, and the cave walls are covered in graffiti. There were plenty of macaque monkeys and Hindu monks. Some of the monks I saw there were almost as hairy as the monkeys. The caves were pretty smelly, but ultimately, it was worth the climb.

This trip really had two purposes. The first reason was to photograph a guy I’ve known for a while – Eric. He is a 20yo student that also excels at acrobatic cheerleading (you know - throw the girls up in the air, catch them, make human pyramids, etc). He’s been photographed a number of times by local photographers, and I was glad to have him in front of my camera. Eric was a trooper during the shoot, considering he wasn’t feeling well, and had a fever the following day. I am happy with the resulting images. Look for more on my website.



The other reason I came here was to meet a successful local photographer (via Eric), named Azrul Abdullah. Azrul is a successful artist here, and regularly shoots for local and international magazines. Speaking with Azrul was entertaining and informative. He explained how the business works in KL, and how to get around the corruption of the local governments. I saw a lot of his beautiful architectural images of old buildings that no longer exist. Like many Asian cities, Kuala Lumpur is going through a building boom of sorts, and they pay little attention to heritage. Azrul has done a great job documenting many of these old structures, often just before they are demolished.

Today, I am heading to another city in Malaysia called Penang. Many of my Malaysian friends encouraged me to visit this small resort town for a few days. I am told that Penang is the “center of arts and culture” in Malaysia, and is well known to have the best food in the country. I will only be there for a few days, but I look forward to exploring it.

Beautiful Beijing

Hey all....
I know it's been a while for me to write. I tried and tried to log in to Blogger while I was in Beijing, but it was just blocked. That's one of the joys of China. Many, many websites are simply not available. Even basic ones like my site. I guess it's something you get used to. There is nothing about my Blog that says anything bad about China...so I don't know why.

Anyways, I really liked Beijing. It was my first time there, of course. And I know enough now, that the first time I am anywhere, I like it a lot. I thought that about Shanghai when I was there last year...and now that I've returned to it, I was less enamored with it. That said, I think there was a lot of polish and charm about Beijing, that I would like to return and see it again in detail.

There were a number of things that impressed me about Beijing. I think the strongest impression was just how big it is. The place is freakin HUGE! Seriously, it must be one of the largest cities I've been to, in square miles. And there is no real center of town. So everything is quite spread out, and it can take a long time to get anywhere. Another thing that impressed me was the sheer volume of monuments and amazing buildings. And since this is the capital city, there was every country's Embassy too.

Since I was only in Beijing for a short visit, I spent all of my time touring the 'must see' areas of the city. Those included the Forbidden City, Tian'an Men Square, the Hutongs, and the Great Wall. All of them were impressive - without exception. When I arrived in the Forbidden City, I had a rough idea of the scale of it, but even with advance reading, I was still surprised at how big it was. I spent a few hours there, but could have easily spent the whole day. There is a LOT to see. Though eventually, all the palaces/temples/shrines begin to look alike. It was seriously crowded too, mostly with Chinese nationals. I saw very few white people. As I was taking photos, I quickly learned that I will rarely get a shot of a part of the monument without people in it, so the people became the photo.

Tian'an Men Square was also impressive. It's very, very large. So large in fact, that you could drive tanks down it. (OK, Now I KNOW my blog will be banned in China.) I enjoyed wandering the square, and seeing all the Chinese people showing their patriotism. I had Peking Duck for lunch - I figured that it was a 'must eat' food. It was super greasy and fatty. No wonder it is so popular. After this, I went to see the Olympic venues, like the Bird's Nest Stadium and the Water Cube. The Stadium is seldom used now. Last week, they staged the first event in it since the Olympics. And that was a concert hosted by Jackie Chan. The Water Cube was closed to tourists, but that was fine, since the beauty of that building is on the outside.

On the next day, I hired a car and driver and took a long 2.5 hour drive to a portion of the Great Wall that is not popular with tourists. Since this is my first visit to the Wall, I thought it would be best to see it where it is not littered with khaki panted chubby tourists. The area I went to was virtually deserted. I saw about 6 other people there - it was perfect. The climb up to the Wall was slow and steep. It's on the top of a mountain, after all. I was quite tired and had to rest several times, as it was quite hot out, too. But getting to the top was worth the long climb up. It was a little hazy for photographs, but it was an amazing place to be. One more thing I can cross off my list of To-Do's in life.

On my final day, I toured the famous 798 Art Gallery area and some small hutongs. Hutongs are the small neighbourhoods made from skinny alleys linking courtyard homes together. Beijing is slowly knocking down whats left of these areas and replacing them with tall towers. The neighbourhood I visited was pretty touristy, though. You could tell it was designed to attract tourists. But I still enjoyed it.


Overall, my impression of Beijing was favourable. It was a huge, and very modern city. They clearly spend a lot of money taking care of it. I would like to see it again.

I am now back in Singapore for a little while. Singapore is one of those places that is hard to like. It's clean and organized (good qualities, I guess), but it just doesn't feel very Asian to me. It could be anywhere in Canada. More about it later, I guess.