Wet, wet, wet

It's Songkran here in Thailand. That's Thai New Years for all my non-Thai readers. And it's unlike any other New Years festival I am familiar with. Actually, here in Thailand, locals celebrate 3 different New Years. Officially, Thailand observes the Western calendar year, so the Dec 31/Jan 01 event happens here as well. And considering the large Chinese influence in Thailand, the Lunar New Years is also observed. I think they got it right here: 3 New Years in the span of 4 month can't be too bad.

What makes the Thai New Years unique, is that unlike other New Years, the participants act out in a manner that can only be described as chaotic. In Western culture, New Years is all about observing the changing of the year and being with the one you love. In Chinese culture, it's all about family. Spending time with relatives is paramount to the Lunar New Year. But in Thailand, it's an all-out street war waged with water and white paste.

Traditionally, the Thai New Year observes some Buddhist ceremonies, cleansing the statues with water. The 'blessed' water would then be collected, as run-off from the cleaning, and gently poured over the shoulders of the community elders for good luck. This has evolved considerably into an massive pouring of water on everyone, from every conceivable vessel. You can't walk down the street during Songkran without being soaked from head to toe with water. The fact that Songkran coincides with the hottest month of the year in Thailand is a benefit (temps rise to +40 in April).

When I first visited Thailand during Songkran, back in 2005, I was not prepared at all. I had no idea what was happening, and how to manage the experience. I remember that I hired a taxi and toured the main areas around my hotel, and stared in wide-eyed amazement at what I was seeing. Thousands of people would line the streets with buckets and water guns, throwing water at anyone that would pass by. This year, as a resident, I've decided to get involved fully. So, I bought a massive 2 litre water gun with pump-action, and a waterproof camera (I have take photos, right?).

I ventured out onto Silom Road, and made my way up the street into the crowd, and was soaking wet within minutes. The water dousing is all in good fun, and not violent in any way. People shoot water in a playful way, and fully expect to be shot at in return. Every shot of water is an invitation to shoot back. There is an etiquette for water shooting too. It's OK to shoot at Elders, but you shoot at their hands in respect. With others, it's open season! You try not to aim for the face, but anywhere else is fine.

Some people don't bother with the water at all. Some prefer to apply a white paste on the face or bodies of passers by. This is symbolic of a Buddhist blessing. It's applied gently, and it's polite to say "thank you" to the applier, since it is meant as a blessing.

This year's celebrations have been reduced, largely due to the political protests that have been going on for the past several months. Many foreign tourists who would normally flock to Thailand during Songkran are absent this year, for fear of being harmed by protesters. It's not as bad as the media is reporting, and most of the protesting has disappeared during New Years. Overall, it's been a truly enjoyable, and wet week.

Suk San Pee Mai!